Underbody reinforcement

¡Hola!
¿Alguien ha quitado o reemplazado el amplificador de graves?
En la entrada de mi garaje, hasta que lo reforme, roza constantemente y he descubierto un ruido nuevo (casi seguro que viene de ahí)
Mi idea es sustituirla por una plancha plana.
¿Alguien más lo ha hecho?

for the non-spanish speakers..

Hello!
Has anyone removed or replaced the underbody guard?
In my driveway, until I refurbish it, it rubs constantly and I've discovered a new noise (almost certainly coming from there).
My idea is to replace it with a flat iron.
Has anyone else done this?

Apart from protecting the underfloor pipes and cables this steel pressing stiffens the body shell. Whether removing it will make a noticeable difference is probably only known by MG Rover. I am sure that in the cost cutting days of the Phoenix Four it would have been deleted if not needed. A flat plate would just flex and not improve the rigidity of the body shell. 

I've posted in English!!
Thanks, Google Chrome and his random translator.. 

I took it apart a few weeks ago, and it only protects the speedometer joint. The pipes are in the groove of the chassis.

For my first attempt I will use 3mm steel. Maybe later with a couple of nerves to increase strength.

You will find this part on eBay I believe? I think it just bolts off and back on with 22 bolts?

Unleashed wrote: You will find this part on eBay I believe? I think it just bolts off and back on with 22 bolts?

Do you mean the original part as fitted to our cars or the modified flatter version that the OP is looking for ?

I'm looking to make on steel a flat version. 
I don't know there's an aftermarket part! 

I think the original or after market part? They are readily available I think. I jump st looked on MGFnTF bits for example they have them, if it's the metal that bolts on underneath the cockpit. However having read the post again if it's a flatter version your after, sorry no idea.

The fact that there are so many bolts used to secure the plate tells be it must do something to stiffen the car, otherwise they'd just use a few clips of self tappers.
Even the ribs and folds pressed into the part will when in combination with all those bolts will add to the torsional rigidity of the car, they may even contribute to a reduction in NVH (Noise, Vibration & Harshness)

Cobber wrote: The fact that there are so many bolts used to secure the plate tells be it must do something to stiffen the car, otherwise they'd just use a few clips of self tappers.
Even the ribs and folds pressed into the part will when in combination with all those bolts will add to the torsional rigidity of the car, they may even contribute to a reduction in NVH (Noise, Vibration & Harshness)

Fully agree with the above.  It also occurs to me that if your F is grounding on your garage/drive floor, either the ground-clearance is desperately small, or your drive/garage floor or wherever it is grounding must be VERY uneven.

I used to have problems with grounding at a slope reversal where my drive meets the edge of the "main" road outside our house.  Since selling the Kit car and buying the standard, (NOT "Sportspack" 1 or 2) TF135, I have never had any grounding problems, despite the appallingly bad state of Devon roads.  Are you confident that the Satur suspension was installed and set-up correctly?

The distance is the same as with the original Hydragas, even the hardness is regulated according to Mike's parameters.

The problem is the entrance, which has a slight inclination (I would say about 5-7°) but when it reaches the plane, it is not progressive AT ALL, it goes from the inclined plane to the straight one without any transition, which is why I have a "hump" that in I will briefly lower to make an entrance with a regular slope.