Rear LEDs
- generous_dad
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- emissions (the engine was cold)
- both rear indicators too white
- handbrake travel
The garage who I give it to discussed with the tester and it passed. But that made me get a couple of (Philips) orange LED indicators and put them in.
The bad news is that it upset the circuit and they flash at double rate. Back to incandescents for the moment.
Has anyone changed to LEDs and what brand/type did you use?
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"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"
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- Airportable
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It’s brew time & if you think I’m going to do Ohms law over a cup of Earl Grey your one off.
There not a lot of ohms but are quite high wattage.
M
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- Notanumber
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2003 TF 135 sunstorm
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- Airportable
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Looking on everyone's favourite general store (Ebay) there are any number listed & they are rated as 6ohms @ 50watt & about £6-00. You need I per lamp, (if you want to know why you can't use one per side give me a shout). I searched for LED resistors & was straight in.
M
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- David Aiketgate
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David
:shrug:
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- Airportable
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The price range of LED for car applications is vast & you really do get what you pay for. I’ve tested a good number & if anyone wants any free samples of ones I’ve considered second best just pop around, but do bring a carrier bag.
One problem with LEDs is also their strength & that’s their low current drain; some draw so little that that small amount won’t draw enough to overcome the contact resistance of a poor quality fitting.
The contacts on the rear light clusters on our cars are a mild steel pressing which is then plated (possibly some tin alloy) & the slightest bit of corrosion will create a high resistance. This resistance will be sufficient to attenuate the light output to virtually zero. An original lamp, drawing more current would “overcome” that resistance.
The near side rear indicator on my car dims appreciably & it requires the contacts cleaning, I have to do this from time to time even though I use a spot of Electrolube on the contacts. Why just the near side, I’ve no idea?
One last thought: the lamp fitting has two connections & it’s usually the steel pressed plate that causes the problem, the positive contact, which looks like it could be some brass alloy gets kacked up. This, I think is deposition of contact material from the lamp positive. It’s always good practice to give that a clean when you are in there, an old fashioned ink rubber is very useful for this.
M
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- Airportable
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If you put this into Ebay you should turn up the device.
"12V 3 Pin Adjustable LED Flasher Relay Unit For Car Turn Signal Light Indicator".
M
Final edit; the three pin LED flasher module looks like its pin compatible. When I'm back from holiday I'll order one to see & if it works it will negate the use of resistors.
![](https://securepics.ebaystatic.com/api/ebay_market_108x45.gif)
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- generous_dad
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For £6, I have the resistors on order from the Bay. Surprised to see what large heat sinks are used on them.
Will fit and report.
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- Notanumber
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2003 TF 135 sunstorm
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- Airportable
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I grew up with with cars with crank handles & had I been faced with the first transverse engine to adapt, I would have worked a hole for the handle in the side of the car.
And if you believe that . . . . . .
Back to the flasher unit. A bit of searching turned up a device which was listed at just over £4 with offers invited. I never miss these offers & ended up with one the slow boat from China, for £3-50. I recon that’ll do as a start.
The relay is on the fuse board, under the steering wheel, at the top left hand corner, at least on my f
There is a diagram out there which shows the cigarette lighter relay as the flasher. This dumb sod ordered that relay in error after an indicator fail in the early days of ownership.
M
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- generous_dad
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Superglued them to the back of the cluster covers, near the cover vents.
Thanks for the advice.
The Philips LEDs are much brighter, especially side view.
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