SRS warning light problem
After sorting out the engine cutting out problem another one rears its ugly head. The SRS light is now permanently on, I had a problem with it a year ago but it has returned with a vengeance. Last year I replaced the plug and socket with a new one and that cured the problem until now. Today I have removed the drivers seat and checked the plug on the seat belt pretensioner, gage it a gentle wriggle to make sure that it is properly seated. I have checked the wiring under the carpet but it seems okay. I then replaced the seat and tested but the light comes on after briefly going out. The next thing was to replace the rotary coupler (squib ring) and still the light comes on. Has anyone a suggestion? My next move was to replace the wiring from the centre console to the connector under the seat but am hesitating incase I heard from someone with an obvious answer.
Last Edit:3 months 1 week ago
by MGB281
Last edit: 3 months 1 week ago by MGB281. Reason: adding info
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Do you have anyone near you with PScan? It would be wise to interrogate SRS ECU to see where the problem is. In other case if you cannot talk with SRS ECU, ECU might be the source of problem.
Last Edit:3 months 1 week ago
by Roverlike
Last edit: 3 months 1 week ago by Roverlike.
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I have now learnt not to take anything for granted, the problem was under the passenger seat! Last year the problem was obvious, a previous owner had been at it and just twisted bare wires together then a bit of insulation tape. This time when it failed after briefly checking the passenger seat .connection I spent the best part of three hours taking the seat out and checking for wiring problems, when the previous owner did his handy work he shortened the wiring so you couldn't check it without removing the seat. I was also lead astray by a post on another forum that said the seat belt buckles were linked into the SRS system but there wasn't a microswitch to be found. After posting on here I went back to the passenger seat and separated the connector, a bit of contact cleaner and we are back in business.
Because Notanumber and I are playing around with MGTF and Freelander stalks I happened to have a Freelander rotary coupler (squib ring) and despite having different part numbers it fits the TF perfectly, they are cheaper than TF one too!
Because Notanumber and I are playing around with MGTF and Freelander stalks I happened to have a Freelander rotary coupler (squib ring) and despite having different part numbers it fits the TF perfectly, they are cheaper than TF one too!
by MGB281
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- Airportable
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What did you find that caused the cutting out?
The Freelander stalks go straight onto our cars & with a fair amount of ingenuity you can use the extra functions they provide.
Do not ask me to expand, it was a long time ago & it was a right old fag, it works great but doesn’t give me the range I expected, but there again it is a range I didn’t have before.
M
The Freelander stalks go straight onto our cars & with a fair amount of ingenuity you can use the extra functions they provide.
Do not ask me to expand, it was a long time ago & it was a right old fag, it works great but doesn’t give me the range I expected, but there again it is a range I didn’t have before.
M
by Airportable
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It was the plug leads, they were new in 2018 (date on leads) but obviously not great quality.
Notanumber and I are fitting MGTF EPAS to MGB’s and the Freelander stalks look more in keeping to the MGB. I hadn’t checked properly and bought stalks from a post 2003 car and there is no dip just a main beam on and off.
Notanumber and I are fitting MGTF EPAS to MGB’s and the Freelander stalks look more in keeping to the MGB. I hadn’t checked properly and bought stalks from a post 2003 car and there is no dip just a main beam on and off.
by MGB281
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- Notanumber
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It was great that a change of plug leads resolved the engine cutting out issue.
2003 TF 135 sunstorm
by Notanumber
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