Windows 7mm gap

Hi

I’m planning to spend some time sorting my windows out as they are definitely not correctly set.  Reading through a lot of the posts and the manual, a key starting point is setting the 7mm gap between the glass and the A post.

I presumes I need to remove the door seal that runs up the A post in order to do this?

many thanks

Hi I think that the door card/s have to be removed to set the window glass correctly, I believe this is covered in the W/shop manual. But I'm 95% sure that you don't need to remove the seals.
Regards Glyn (D4KGP)

Before asking, had you read the extensive write ups on this in the Forum's How To section

Starting with; https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/54-how-tos/26588-window-adjustment#26588

Adjusting the cheater to the A pillar https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/21-david-aiketgates-guides/28359-door-window-cheater-how-to-replace#28359/

And the door seal https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/22-cjjs-guides/2163-door-window-seal-how-to-adjust

I’ve waded through that lot & im still not totally happy. A number of the winter jobs are in the doors, including fitting remote window switches just up from the inner handle. This is a more intuitive position than behind the gear stick.
M

Airportable wrote:

I’ve waded through that lot & im still not totally happy. A number of the winter jobs are in the doors, including fitting remote window switches just up from the inner handle. This is a more intuitive position than behind the gear stick.
M
 

You would've hated my old Alfa 90s they had the window switches up on the underside of the roof!

Certainly, that would be a really inconvenient, having to stop the car, put the roof up, drop the window, put the roof back down & set off again.
And what happens if theres a touch too much of a draft & you want it up about couple of inches?
M

Hi

Yes I’ve read through all of these and the workshop manual. Sorry but I thought I had said that in my post but maybe not clearly.

In this post: https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/54-how-tos/26588-window-adjustment#26588

It says “ The 7mm parallel gap is about the only direct measurement of the correct height of the glass when setting the glass stops C and F.”

This is the gap between the glass and the A post. However, all of the posts, how to’s, pictures and manuals are silent on how to do it.

Maybe I’m missing something or just being a bit slow.

I'm afraid the manual does leave a bit to be desired. So do not feel bad because you may think that you may not understand parts of it, there is a more than fair chance nobody does! Sometimes we have to use it as a rough guide. We have to make do with what we have.
Modern workshop manuals are no longer written by someone who knows what they are doing as they probably haven't even tried to do the process that they are trying to describe.
This is because they hand the job to some junior engineer still wet behind the ears from school.
Now I've had the misfortune to have worked in 4 university engineering schools installing and/or building equipment, And was completely dismayed by the incompetence I saw there.......no not from the students, the bloody drongos teaching them....what hope have the poor bloody students got?
As a result, the poor buggers come out of uni with their bit of paper in their hot little hand, that in effect,that states that they are ready to be unleashed upon us poor long suffering bastards in the real world! 
And one of the first jobs that get handed to them is write the instruction and workshop manuals.

I now what is involved in writing manuals as one large multi national company, whose local operation I worked for, had taken one look at the assembly and installation manuals for some large and complex industrial equipment that were provided by the manufacturer in Italian.  And they came to the decision that they needed to start again with a clean sheet and unusually decided to base this on an me writing and compiling then manual as I was putting a few of these machines together.
I was chosen to do this as I was already working there to try and sort out some of the many endless production issues that they were having with production of some other product lines that had been shifted from their closed production facilities here in Oz to China which was of course the root cause of all their production issues, and were happy with what I was doing.
Don't worry the writing was in a style that was concise and to the point, not like here where I waffle on to amuse myself and hopefully amuse you lot in the process.
The manuals featured good clear hi resolution photos instead of the usual crap indecipherable grainy low resolution B&W pics or shiity line drawings that look like they were done by a 4 year old in crayon. And I'm proud to asy that my English version of the manuals  were adopted by the company world wide and even translated in to other languages even Italian, replacing the original offering.

If you want me to write in a concise and to the point manner you have to pay me!

Waffle concluded..... for now!

Now to the point, (with a little bit of waffle, 'cos I'm doing this for free)

1st ....To reiterate, you shouldn't necessarily feel stupid because you couldn't understand a piece of poor technical writing (it's quite possible the idiots that wrote it, that are to blame) 

2nd ....In order so as we can see exactly where and what you are referring to we need some extra pix, these are not to be close ups but to be reference points so as we can better tell the area where your close ups are, remember we seldom see things with our eyes in such minute detail as can be provided with modern digital photography, so we can sometimes not be entirely sure if the pic is of a part of the car, or it is instead actual some rando macro photography picture of some insect's arse that was submitted by clicking the wrong pic by mistake.