Lower airbox removal on TF.

Airportable wrote:

I have, it’s not difficult. The thing to do is dispense with the clock & fit a matching pressure & temperature gauges. Standard 2”/52mm gauges go straight in, a union doubler is required, either as a screw in/on adapter. I prefer a sand plate, however not all sandwich plates are equal, some Chinese offerings don’t have the correct thread form.
If you go ahead & require more info we’ll cover it later.
M

David aiketgate wrote:-

There actually is an oil pressure sensor present already. It feeds the oil pressure warning light. When I put in my dual oil pressure and temp gauges, due to me getting the thread wrong on the pressure sensor that I'd bought, I thought, what the hell, try taking the wire off tbe back of the low pressure light and connecting the wire from the original sensor to the new gauge. Guess what? It works fine! Although I then didn't have a low oil pressure light, but I didn't miss it. If I could have been bothered I suppose I could have gone back in and piggybacked the oil light, but I'd put it all back together by then.🤣


 

I consider doing away with the warning light & using this system, deciding against it, due to the memory map I have of my instruments, warning lights & the strange way my brain works. I have subsequently used that signal to control an auxiliary circuit.
M

After reading your earlier post I am considering the Pipercross cone filter mod. Re: noise, when you say "I can live with it" how noisy is it ?

BTW, Bruce's low coolant alarm is a good bit of kit and easy to fit. Great peace of mind on a long motorway run.

Laurence J wrote:

After reading your earlier post I am considering the Pipercross cone filter mod. Re: noise, when you say "I can live with it" how noisy is it ?

BTW, Bruce's low coolant alarm is a good bit of kit and easy to fit. Great peace of mind on a long motorway run.

Hiya,  regarding noise it's a difficult one to answer because we all have different tolerances!
At normal town driving in traffic it is hardly noticeable..it just burbles along.
When you start to push it hard then you do notice a difference but somehow, against my better nature, I actually like it! At cruising speeds on the motorway it might be ok because you are less than 4k or so.
I removed all of my airbox today so it is staying!!
For the first time today I opened ip the engine access port. It's better than I thought as I was worried I would have to learn key hole surgery! 
Bruce's kit gets fitted tomorrow if the rain holds off but it stopped play today especially having to have the roof open.
Alas another car in the garage means it's oitside work.
 

@Laurence J

I bought mine from Demon Tweeks earlier this week for £78..same as the ones being sold for £109 at regular MG outfits.

Progress is being made.
Removed the engine cover today and once again I am pleased to find everything under there is in good condition. I didn't need my 10mm ratchet spanner because those 3 screws were missing! I have plenty of ss bolts and will replace them.
I removed the airbox and trunking so the Cone filter can sit in free airspace with no chance of rattling on anything.
There is more room than I thought in there and it was good to take note of things I might be fixing in the future.
I am now finally ready tofit Bruce's kit if the rain holds off tomorrow.
I have removed the header tank to clean it out but it is heavily sludge stained inside. It is currently in a container full of water containg bleach, washing up liquid and floor cleaner but nothing much looks to be happening!
I will try my flexi dremel and a wheel tomorrow but any suggestions are welcome.