Sound deadening on the cheap!

Due to having a MGB that I am restoring I go onto this forum on a regular basis; https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mgb-and-gt-forum.1/   There are regular discussions about both heat and sound insulation, the heat insulation is not really relevant but the sound proofing is. The camp is divided in two groups, one say's that Dynamat is the ultimate product and nothing can better it. The other group say that Dynamat is nothing special just clever marketing, they use other butyl rubber pads that are slightly thicker and a lot of others use bitumen based products like the Bostick one. Back in the day MG themselves used bitumen based pads, my GT has them on the door skins and they are still intact forty six years later. I personally think that the push to butyl rubber is due to environmental concerns rather than it being a superior product.
These are still available to dampen vibration and to level the floor in MGB's 
Floor Sound Proofing / Deadening Kit For MGB & MGC 1968 onwards BMH9500 Buy It Now
Incidentally the product that I linked to is available in widths up to a metre wide

If you had a half decent heat gun you would find that you'd probably use it more often,
I last used mine to soften the mastic sealant that secures the water sheader plastic sheet behind the fuel tank panel, the old mastic had stuck to the sheet when I peeled away from the car, so all I had to do to reuse it was press it back with my thumb as I gently heated it....stuck back on like it had never been off!
Heat shrink tubing is your friend when working on automotive electrics, especially it you do it properly and use solder on your terminals instead of those worthless red blue and yellow crimp shit! A good heat gun is the best way to shrink the tubing gently. I eve use it to soften rubber hoses that I would otherwise struggle to fit over the barbed spigot

When softening hoses I usually stick the end to be connected in my wife’s brew whilst it’s still hot.
This is especially useful if it’s really cold, as I can be sure of at least one hot ear, possibly two if I’m not quick enough.
Whenever I’m doing any sort of electrical or electronic work, my heat gun shares the same importance as my soldering equipment.
It’s also great for blowing up the fire when the weather conditions aren’t favourable.
I don’t mind crimp connectors but with the proviso that they are of good quality & the correct tool is used. Cheap crimps create completely crappy connections. Correct?
M

Ok..ok..you are both ganging up on me...I may or may not invest in one but there is always just something else...
I solder a lot with guitar electronics and use heat shrink tubing..my soldering is good..just saying..wink.

C'mon you know we're right!

   I know...

We are deep in snow up here in the wilds and I was bored so I got the car nice and warm on the inside and removed the carpets and underlay behind the seats.
Not a jot of sound deadening on the tank panel.
Well there is now on both sides and all is back together.
I haven't taken out the floor carpets but will it be bare metal underneath the underlay too?
I have some left for another day.

Did you just put the bitumastic pad on there or did you add a bit more sound insulation? If not try some closed cell foam, I used to get loads of it from work, because it was so cheap loads got thrown into the skips. There is one variant that is used under laminate flooring that's about 8mm thick and has a heat reflecting foil on one surface. 

I do know the foam you are talking about but I just put the bitumen tape on the panel.
It has to help in some way because that panel is bolted on and will be like a drumskin.
I can't drive it yet to see if it's any better due to snow.
It may be difficult adding thickness because of the screw lengths for the poppers.
EDIT: This is all suck it and see but thinking about it there is a difference between sound deadening and sound proofing.
The reason I am using stick on tape is to kill the panels vibrations. Laying foam on it wouldn't stop the vibrations but would add to what's already there to soundproof those vibrations more.
I think I will definitely use tape and foam on the floor. My joiner friend uses it under laminate flooring.
Did I ever mention that I love this car?!

This is a really interesting topic for me as I still haven't done under the dash or the bonnet and boot lid.
I recently fixed the boot leak but found that I was still getting water in from condensation.  
Do you think that sound deadening or some other type of insulation would help?

I did under the bonnet but it hasn't stopped condensation.
The day after I did the bonnet I had a look to see if any had fallen off but all was ok but the tape had the same condensation on it as the bare metal.
I am still going to do the boot lid though because I think I am improving the drive 2% at a time!
Need to do under the floor carpets and any under the dash I can get to once they are out.
You were right about the doors! That made a big difference.

When you do the floor pans you will probably find them in good condition, but if you find any rust bubbles then I would recommend rubbing them down and treating with kurust or something similar before attaching the sound proofing.