Defeating Superlock

I am starting this discussion for two reasons. First so as not to further clutter the other topic that is running at present where the contributor is struggling to gain access to his vehicle, and secondly to educate myself about the issues with this superlock in response to a state of panic a while ago when stood watching the door buttons going up and down but not releasing the door.
It is my hope that others will comment accordingly and correct me where I am wrong.

So here is the first statement. At present I have dismantled the lock I previously removed to resolve the issue experienced as described above.
Second, what follows refers to a MGTF 135 with the Lucas fob
Third, (and someone with greater knowledge than me may well shoot me down in flames almost immediately) it is my opinion that if the battery to the car is isolated it should be possible for the mechanical key to turn the lock barrel such that the lock itself is unlocked thereby overcoming superlock.

This assumes that there are no broken components within the lock itself and that all the linkages connecting the external door handle to the lock case are correctly adjusted (remember they are threaded for adjustment so some setting up must be required).
Whilst there are numerous comments surrounding the reliability of the locks I find it hard to imagine that the design brief when the car was on the drawing board was such that it excluded a means to enter the car if the electrical system failed. If there are broken components within the lock mechanism that jam it all up that is a different matter.

So, if I'm right why should we fear superlock? Why the need to cut that wire?

I am in the process of writing up a brief report on what I have found as I have inspected the lock components and will add this for further comment when I have completed it but that is unlikely to be for a few days now.
 

I appreciate this.
I am learning so much about these cars and therefore my car. Same model and fob as yours.

I tried in my last post on the subject to convey the irrational reaction to the super lock “fly past” indeed I reacted in the same way when first I became aware; “get that wire cut PDQ”.
I have to agree with the fail safe premiss; no designers worth their salt would pass for manufacturer a product which would endanger either driver or passenger if there were to be a mishap.
Certainly the impact sensor should instruct any lock mechanism to release & isolate ignition & fuel but I’m thinking more of an electrical failure caused by a failed fuse.
This thread might run, it will be interesting & worth keeping up to date.
M

I'm not clear on whether use of the key on the driver's door can override the superlock but most complaints seem to relate to the passenger door which is devoid of the ability to use a manual key.

I'd be most interested to see what you are able to discover about failsafe options and if there is any alternative to a superlocked passenger door other than butchering the door card.
At present its in my top 6 pieces of initial advice to new owners:
1 fit a coolant level alarm
2 check the boot hinge wiring.
3 check the bonnet latch and release cable move freely
4 check tyre type and pressures
5 replace fob batteries and keep a spare
6 disconnect the brown/pink superlock wires

It is my understanding that the superlock performs as follows. If I’m wrong can someone please tell me.
It can only be engaged electronically i.e. by use of the fob.
Once engaged the door lift button, the internal and external door opening mechanisms are disabled (it probably initiates the alarm associated with any internal movement detection too but for the purposes of this discussion I’m not considering anything to do with the alarm systems).

There are two electrical motors. One to operate a spur gear and its quadrant. When locking the door the movement of the quadrant is limited by a pawl. The second is the motor associated with the superlock.
The job of the superlock motor (as far as I can see) is solely to apply a torque sufficient to swing the pawl clear of the quadrant in such a way that the standard motor can continue to rotate the quadrant to the final or maximum travel position. In that position the door button is disabled.
From what I can see thus far return movement of the quadrant does not require the pawl to be moved.by its associated motor.

If the above is accepted it would seem to suggest that any inability of the motors to open the door is more down to a different electrical problem or a failed mechanical component within the mechanism jamming it all up. In that situation I agree that a key will not open the passenger door or the driver’s door either.
If I’m right I can now understand if “machine gun” is taking place that the means to overcome the situation is to open boot/bonnet and disconnect the battery before using the key to unlock the door. In a state of panic that might not be the first thing on one’s mind. It certainly wasn’t on mine.

Why does “machine gun” occur? That is a different question and one I’m not likely to discover but it could be something to do with one of the limiting micro switches.
If the mechanism is broken with a part jamming the spur gear and quadrant , or any other part, no key will open the door but it is not a fault of the superlock specifically in my view.
As indicated I hope to have a brief description of what I have managed to discover by dismantling the one I have. But that will not be for some days .
In the interim if any one can add anything to this discussion I would welcome it.

Regarding micro switches. My first impressions are that as the door is locked either by the key or its fob a cam sweeps past one micro switches and changes its status from on to off and back on again (possibly the other way around) and my thoughts on this are that any interruptions in signal as the switch changes status could confuse the ECU and start telling it to perform the other action and set up a repeating cycle unlock/lock etc. But that is speculation.