mg tf 160 bad head gasket
Hi All!
I bought an MG tf 160 to learn how to fix cars knowing it had a bad head gasket. I've taken it apart and noticed that the bottom piston has a slight chip (see images: The lower piston ring barely shows through the chip).
I am tempted to put it back together as I am on a slight budget but I'm worried it might spiral into a bigger issue in the future and all the work would've been in vain.
I would greatly appreciate some of your thoughts
many tanks
-Max
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Do Not put it back together!!
That is almost certainly why the HG failed.
You would be wasting a new HG, time and money for it to fail 5 miles up the road.
Check the bore to see if it is scored...the very minimum you can get away with is a s/h piston and replacing all of the other rings.
I built Toyota engines and kept spare pistons but I knew they were good and not oval so I got away with it.
That's a big job for a "novice" and I say that respectfully.
Others will offer advice soon.
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- Notanumber
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Whereabouts are you ?.
2003 TF 135 sunstorm
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What mileage is on the engine?
Is there a service history showing regular oil changes etc?
Did the previous owner explain how the HG failed? He wouldn't know about that piston.
Any other problems mentioned whilst chatting about the sale..like knocking noises?
As has been said it could be a relatively "simple" fix but it could also be a long drawn out saga..building it back up and the big ends knock..or it smokes..etc.etc.
I'm not being a downer Max..I understand a limited budget but it's a tricky one to answer.
Not being your car before it broke means you can't know how good the engine was running before hand and unless you knew the seller you can only take his word for "how good it was" before the HG went.
If it has approaching 100k on it then bite the bullet and re-shell and re-ring it and lap the valves in etc. You will really learn a lot from that excercise!
Clean that bore out with petrol and really check if the bore is scored because if it is it's a rebore...
I'm new to the K series engines but others can advise on the cost of a known s/h short motor..or even a complete motor.
There are some reputable dealers out there known to this forum.
Good luck!
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Have you rotated the crankshaft whist the head was removed, without anything to secure the bore liners in place? I ask this because the bores can move if not held in place. on these engines when the crank is turned without something to hold the bores in place, this can cause all the bore liners to not seal properly at the bottom and for them to have an uneven height making the head gasket not seal properly.
this isn't gonna me the cheap fix were hoping for!
Download the workshop manual free from this site.
Where in the world are you? If your in the UK, your cheapest course of action is probably going to be find a good second hand engine.
What's the rest of the car like? I ask because it the whole car may end up a money pit if it's a rust bucket.
At the very minimum your are up for a S/H piston, new rings, the gasket set, timing belt etc.
You'll probably find that you need to replace the bore liner too, and find that as you go you may need to replace bearings, head bolts, water pump, do some head work, etc.
Price these items before you go much further, I'm not trying to discourage you but if money is tight then you need to assess if it's an economically viable project for you.
I would hate encourage you to waste your time and money on a shitbox that isn't worth it. But if the rest of the car has potential, then maybe it's worthwhile.
You are asking questions in the right place, and we will help walk you through this, but you need to know if it's worth your while.
"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"
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to answer all the questions:
- I'm Located in South Africa (parts aren't super easy to come by but doable, and one can order things from Rimmerbros)
- the car has 136,000 km on it and the body is rust-free and in pretty good nick.
- There is no service history, but I heard the engine running(purchased for about 900 pounds so was willing to risk it) and It couldn't hear any obvious issues and started up easily. There was just an issue where it would stall once it got up to temperature. Quite strange in that it would idle fine, but then I would apply throttle and once it tried idling again it would stall.
- I believe the HG failure was caused by one of the coolant pipes leaking fluid till the car overheated.
- I haven't rotated the crankshaft since removing the head (great tip)
I've already done some work on the cylinder head and am rebuilding it after skimming it and lapping there valves(watching lots of videos to make sure I don't mess up the timing and making sure it's within the head height limit)
After reading all the messages I'm convinced to go ahead and remove the pistons to asses the damage and at minimum replace the damaged one and all piston rings. Will post my progress/findings here
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"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"
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Firstly your location and that you have a rust free car. That makes a huge difference and means it's worth doing the engine right.
Secondly your skill level has been elevated due to the work you have already done!
I would take the engine out and strip out the pistons, replace the broken piston and re ring them all. Take out the big end shells and inspect the crankshaft journals. They don't have to be "perfect"..there maybe very fine lines..as long as it's not grooved. The bearing shells will give you a good indication.
If the car is good it makes sense to do it right first time. It keeps the car original and you know you will have a good engine you will look after.
I'm good at building engines, gearboxes etc but I know nothing about these engines specifically..but guess what..there are guys here that do! They can answer very specific questions and will get you thru it.
Good luck!
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- David Aiketgate
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- David
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Something else to consider is where did the pieces of piston material go to? 🤔What additional damage, if any, has been caused?
David
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- Notanumber
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2003 TF 135 sunstorm
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It's got the number "135" stamped in the side. Could this be a piston from a 135 engine?(or are they the same and it doesn't matter?
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I wonder if some ham fisted ape hasn't broken the piston installing it, and pulled the lose bit out before bolting down the head and hoping for the best.
What does the bore of the liner look like?
"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"
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