Link Assembly - Long - Trailing Rear Suspension - RH Rear - RGD000620

Many will know that the long link assembly is located in the centre of the car under the subframe . It is secured there with a torx bolt (M10 x 65mm and that bolt engages into a welded on nut.
Can anyone please tell me if that bolt was fixed from coming undone by using loctite please?

I’m seeking to remove and potentially replace the long link on the driver’s side. If I can get it off I may be able to re use part of it.
At the moment the M10 Torx is “reluctant” to free off I can sense some twist as I apply the socket set etc but no movement the bolt is stuck fast.
At the same end the lock nut on the long link (abutting to the swivel/rose-style joint is equally stuck fast.
I have had some heat on that and plenty of plus gas etc. It was last moved earlier this year but will not budge now despite copperslip on its thread when tightened up.

So, was loctite a factory fit on this torx bolt in particular?
And any ideas for the lock nut please? Of less importance if I can get the M10 torx bolt out.
 

When I put my Torx bolt back in I used Loctite, not only does it prevent it undoing it also prevents corrosion. I had to get those locknuts very hot with a MAP torch even when the arm was securely held in the vice. In case you didn’t know the ball joint on the outside is from a Mondeo, fairly certain from a MK3 but it is obvious when you look at one. 

Thank you for the report back on your experience. That is helpful.
As stated in my initial post I have tried everything in my armoury to shift the nut let alone the actual rod in the fitting. So I am at the point of raising the white flag and surrendering to the local garage. I don't have anything other than a small blow lamp to heat it up. But I do have spare links that I will ask the garage to fit and ideally I will service the arms that come off. It should be possible to reclaim everything one way or another by buying a spare assembly from ebay just to get hold of a replacement screwed rod if it is needed. Yes I believe the ball joint ends are available. The "rocking horse" part is the rose/swivel joint at the inner end. Reclaim that and we are "cooking with gas".

A MAP gas plumbing blowlamp is significantly more effective for these jobs than a DIY butane type blowlamp despite them not being a significantly more expensive tool. I still have the one I bought 20 years ago and use it for absolutely everything. The gas bottle refils last quite a while and are cheap and easy to get hold of.
In fact the only time Ive ever resorted to a DIY blowlamp ever since has been for burning off paint on a wooden window sill but I could probably have even got away with using the MAP blowlamp for that too .