Central locking

Hi all. New to the forum so forgive me if I’m doing things wrong. I was after some advice if anyone has had similar problems.
I own a 2004 MG TF in x power grey. Restoration 3 years ago as it had been abused and neglected. Had a few issues to start, but all was going very well until last summer. Super hot day, and the car failed to start. It cooled down and away we went. Failed again the following day. 
I wrongly thought it was something to do with the immobiliser (turned out to be a fried fuel pump), so I sent away the Pektron box for replacement. He new one arrived, I fitted it, and had initial problems with the central locking. However, once I disconnected the battery, and reconnected it, all was well….for a few days. Then it failed again. I contacted the supplier, who I won’t name in fairness. He told me his units never fail. I could send it back, but he said it would be wasting time and money as the issue is with the car and he would only send the same unit back at my expense.
I then refitted my original box as I had cured my non starting issue (fuel pump), and the central locking worked perfectly……..Until now. Only works with remote pressed to passenger window. I’ve tried the usual, fitting a new and tested fob battery. Fully charged the car battery, and tried a different battery. Still have the same problem. Car still runs ok, immobiliser turns off ok.
Anyone have any ideas please.
Ian

Are you absolutely sure about the fob battery?....it wouldn't be the first time "brand new" batteries were utter Chinese shit, and didn't last a few weeks!
Just a few weeks ago I had to replace the A23 battery in the remote for the ceiling fan/light in my bedroom again, as the "brand new" battery was shit and only lasted a few weeks!

I'm not sure about the TFs as I'm a eFfer, not a TFfer,  but I seem to recall that, some people have increased the range of their remotes by unfurling the antenna wire for the remote system in the car, it was all the rage here on the forum @ 10 yrs ago........I never bothered as I've always despised alarm systems, and would rather not have the damned things fitted at all!

However given that was a thing back then, maybe your antenna wire is damaged or has slipped into a bad position.
I don't even know where this antenna wire is in the car...........such is my lack of interest in the alarm system, I could never be arsed finding out! 

My old Ford ute (about the same vintage as my F, so about the same age tech) has Ford's dumb "Smartlock" system fitted, a troublesome piece of shit, if there ever was one!
You would often need to bash on the dash in a certain position to get the damned thing to start, if you were stupid enough to use the remote.
The remote for my ute shat itself years ago when it was dropped in some water by accident (probably a green furry mess inside now), fortunatly the system wasn't armed at the time.
In the case of these Fords if you don't arm the stupid security system, and just use the old fashioned key to lock and unlock the car you have no such worries about having to bash the dash......So I've not bothered with Ford's Moronlock system since!.......Happy days!
In fact the reason I managed to buy the ute cheap in the 1st place was the then owner couldn't start it and had given up on it. when I went to inspect it I noticed the interior light didn't work, so negoiated the price with the owner and then replaced the interior light fuse, started the car and drove away......you should've seen the look on the bloke's face.....priceless! 
I used to work for Ford, so a little knowledge is a hany thing......in these old Fords, they used the interior light system to determine if the doors are open and if the light don't work then the car is imobilised.......what a stupid bloody system!
I have since imobilised the whole imobiliser system so as a dodgy light switch or globe doesn't bring me undone. 

The local taxi operator ran these Fords on his small fleet, the stupid basted had fitted a secret kill switch hidden in the driver's door pocket. Being a paranoid type of bloke, he didn't tell any of the drivers it was there, so every time they put the street dirctory in the door pocket the toggle switch would throw and the car was stuck where it was!  What a dickhead!

The moral of the story is security systems only inconvenience honest people, the crooks always figure out a work around!
In this age of security systems, the scumbags don't bother trying to get past the system anymore, they just bash or stab you the get your keys and fob in order  to steal your car....... how modern tech tech has improved society!

As with Cobber, I too am an f’er but not as closed off to alarm systems, I put his aversion to alarms down to living upside down in a hot country with too many kangaroos, camels & drop bears.
I recall the aerial fad of ten years ago, however I seem to recall the aerial wire being yellow & tucked behind the passenger foot well cover. There was an optimum length & attitude recommended by one of our amateur radio chaps.
of which we have not heard of for a while.
The car’s tucked up & I’ve not been near it since before Christmas, or if nip out to check, I’ve four design & builds on the go at the moment, one requiring another piece making to check another.
M

Yes Cobbler. Checked voltage on fob battery, 3.2 so all good. Also have three fobs, all of which perform the same. Have to be almost inside the car to work.
As for yellow antenna wire, have checked and can’t find one. I believe it is an integral part of the pesky pektron box, unless someone can tell me different.
Thanks for responding

Yet again the highly unusual situation where that having the Lucas part is the better option!
There is a little box of electrical tricks in the Triumph TR7 that controls the pop up headlights.......it's a constant pain in the arse too!

Here you go:  How to extend the alarm / fob operating range.

Hi. Thanks for response. I have checked for the yellow wire, on loom and hazard switch. Not there. I believe in later models the antenna is built in to the pektron box.
It worked fine up until I fitted the replacement box, which was very intermittent. And then when I put the original box back in, it was fine, even from several meters away. But now, it’s an issue.
Mystery

Try cleaning the battery terminals in the remote.
 

Same issue on all three fobs. Even with cleaning.

I’m following this in case I get a similar problem with the Pektron system and just recently I think my key fob had to be much closer to the car than it needed to be a month or so ago.

So can I just check please on a couple of your statements?
In the original post you say that you sent your unit away and received one back where the implication is that the unit you received was not or might not have been the original item coded to your car. Is that correct?
On receiving the replacement or serviced item you fitted it and all was well for a while. You then took it out and fitted a different Pectron item. Is that correct? 
If so where did the second box come from and how did you code 3 keys to two entirely different Pectron boxes. As I understand the Pectron system you need the rolling code (22 characters?). 

To avoid just the problem you describe and have spare availability I did think about obtaining a spare new fob and Pectron but was advised against on the basis that unless used regularly the two (fob and Pectron) that they can get out of synchronisation.
So I’d be very grateful if you could clarify the detail of what you swapped in/out and how you got the fobs to synchronise with the different Pectron boxes.
I know this can be achieved with the Lucas systems using Pscan (and have done that in the past) but I’m unaware if it can be done like that with Pectron.
 

BruceTF135 wrote:

Here you go:  How to extend the alarm / fob operating range.

              Thanks for posting the above, really valuable info for future reference.

I thought that great information too.
I wonder if in supplying the next bit of info whether I am simply confusing the issue, or whether it will genuinely help.
But here goes.
The best length of antenna is a 5/8 wave.
This length gives something known as gain on receive and transmit a more powerful signal in other words.
Though we are primarily interested in receive.
Also, antennas are polarised, if the output signal is vertical the antenna needs to be vertical for best results, old fashioned TV aerials testify to this.
This matters.
So, don't bother standing on your head when opening the doors, but do try holding the fob sideways up in the hand, then try flat to the palm of the hand.
I know, I know, it sounds ridiculous, 
My car is good already, so this is theory, but its worth a try before you start ripping out parts.