Gear cables - How to Change.

Great work, mate! :yesnod:
I have a little memory in the back of my mind of someone fabricating a new closure plate that was a lot easier to refit.:shrug:
And I think they used sealant to stick the plate on rather than bolt it. But I may be dreaming.
I'll have a look, could save a lot of heartache.

David Aiketgate wrote: ...I have a little memory in the back of my mind of someone fabricating a new closure plate that was a lot easier to refit.:shrug:
And I think they used sealant to stick the plate on rather than bolt it. But I may be dreaming.
I'll have a look, could save a lot of heartache.

It was CJJ when he had his engine out he had the plate plated as well.

Ok, memory not 100%.
Clive got some stainless closure plates made.

I don't see why you couldn't use some heat resisting sealant(liquid gasket type stuff?) on the plate and just replace the 'easy' bolts with stainless.

Oooh! now those are nice! :thumbsup:
I wouldn't imagine there are any of those available are there?...Hello Clive??? :whistle:
I did check Rimmers and they list new plates for 6 quid but, of course are out of stock.
I anticipate trying to bend my existing plate back to something resembling it's original shape,
trying to get in at least some of the bolts and then covering it with a layer or 3 of Dynamat as I have a roll of the stuff here.

Hey Rich ,

How much easier would it be to use a lift??

Not that I have to replace mine but just curious!

John

Hi John,
It would just be so much easier for old guys like us to not have to work off a creeper!
With your cars I doubt you would have the same problem with rusty fasteners that I did.
Other than that it was just a very awkward job. The only way I was able to get the stripped bolt between the handbrake cables was to hammer a screwdriver between the two layers of the closing plate to create a gap, then drilled a hole through the shank of the bolt using a 12" aircraft bit. This weakened it enough that I was able to pop the head off.
To top it off I have been using my TR7 while the MGF was off the road and the insurance was due to expire tomorrow. To renew the insurance it needed an emissions test. It failed the first time so yesterday evening I gave the carbs a going over. I retested it today and fortunately it passed with flying colours so now I can concentrate on the F again....And my wife won't have to get up early to drive me to work! :thumbsup:

Cheers,
Rich

By the way...Welcome to the T-Bar!

Thanks for the welcome, I have been lurking for a while though!!

My Japanese cars are completely rust free , you can still see the various stickers and dabs of paint on various nuts. But, my Abingdon came from the motherland so it has a similar fate to yours!!! I have the engine / rear subframe out so changing the cables should be easier.

Soon you will be Canada's first Master MG Rover Technician!!! We will have to come to you for factory training!!

John

I will either end up a master technician or a broken man!
I got the cables secured and connected at the front this evening so will update the how-to.
Once again, the job was quite straight forward but half of the car had to be dismantled to get to it.
Very frustrating!
John, you were smart to buy the Japanese cars. I wish I hadn't been so impatient.

New cable arrived on Thursday :woohoo:

I've been a bit busy so started on the closing plate in earnest today.

All bolts out except the bottom bolt, which seems very badly coroded and may need a sound 'talking to' tomorrow :lol:

However, having to remove the transmission tunnel gave me access to wire the electronic boot release how I wanted it as well as tidying up the wiring for the rear speakers I installed.

With a bit of luck I may have the cable in tomorrow

Well Done Laz!
If you managed to get the bolt between the handbrake cables you have it made!
For the rusted bottom bolt I used a big screwdriver and levered against the subframe compressing the closing plate (there are two layers of gasket there, so there is some give) This took the pressure off the bolt head and allowed me to turn it with an 8mm wrench in spite of the rust damage. Surprisingly the threads were good, just the head was rusted.
I will update my how-to with the finish of my battle with the cables.
The bottom line is My car is mobile again-Whew! :yesnod:

:woo2: As our US buddies would say 'Good job, guys!':woo2:

Had real problem removing the backplate but managed to bend it enough to get the old cable out :woohoo:

Will try tomorrow to 'encourage it back to allow refitting.

New cable threaded in but not connected until tomorrow when I will get the proper grease to put on the ends - any suggestions as to what to get would be appreciated.