MGTF - No Dashboard Lights - Ignition Switch to II

Hi,

My wifes TF has a peculiar problem as the moment...
When she switches the ignition to position I, the radio comes on with no problem. Switch the ignition to position II and nothing. Radio continues to play, but there are no lights appearing on the dashboard. Turn the ignition to position III and the car won't turn over. 

The strange thing is, leave the switch at position II, and after a short time, the alarm light ignites. 

Then turn the ignition position off, and then try again and it might work and the car with start straight away. 

There are times when the key is in position II and after no dashboard lights, they just come on and am able to start the car. 

I have checked the battery and it's in fine health, and just changed the battery in the fob. Car locks and unlocks without issue and from several meters so not sure what the problem is. Don't know if it's linked the recent onslaught of rain? 

TIA
 

The source of your pain and suffering might take a bit of tracking down, loose connections somewhere, but before I would chase those I'd check the ignition switch itself  maybe the contacts inside the key-switch are buggered, no much but replacing it will help there but use a multimeter to check it functions in the various positions.
Should you either not have a multimeter or aren't sure how to do this you're probably better off to handball the job to an auto-electrician.
 

Thank you.
I will start with the multimeter around the key-switch and connections and see if anything doesn't look right.
If I have to replace the key-switch, will I be able to switch the lock itself so I can keep the existing keys?

There are one or two useful illustrations of the switch floating about on the internet. These are of value when sorting problems like this.
I’m going from memory here, which is rarely a good thing with me but search out Dieter’s web site. He has an early diagram of an f, this doesn’t look much like it’s successors but the basic key switch wiring is the same throughout the cars.
If I recall correctly, it had a block diagram of what connects to what as the key is turned; later diagrams omit this, again if the memory serves.
To others reading this, it is worth looking up Dieter’s site, some of it is inspired.
M

If I recall correctly, the electrical switch (black plastic unit) attaches to the bottom of the actual metal ignition switch, so the key mechanism remains the same😁


Yep, it's attached by 2 screws, so you can buy a second hand unit and swap your ignition barrel to the newer plastic connection.(If that is your problem, tbat is).

I think there are two patterns of switch, early & late (nowt like stating the obvious) & I don’t think you can graft one onto the other. Electrically they are identical, if buying a used part do make sure it’s off the same family group.
An early f & a 500 won’t mix.
Again this post starts with “I think” & so someone might like to verify, I have a switch in store which I think is a Mk2 / tf, I can’t check against a Mk1 as my car starts electronically & the key just enables the electronics, the rest of it fell in bits, hence the electronics.
M

I’ve just been in stores & found this, it might help identify what you have. 
this is off a Mk1, dated 25-06-98. 
M

It's very easy to change the switch part on the back of the ignition lock. Just 2 screws

Hello,

As per me, the fact that the car starts intermittently and the dash lights don’t always come on points to a potential electrical connection problem. Check for any moisture or corrosion around the ignition switch, and ensure the wiring harness is secure. It’s also worth inspecting the fuses and relays for any signs of water damage. If the problem persists, the ignition barrel itself might need replacing.

Thanks

What has HenryThompson done I wonder to get banned. The words of the immortal John Cleese came to mind whilst reading his post, "Specialist subject the bleeding obvious"  but seemed unlikely to have otherwise got up anyone's nose and his 2 other posts were fine.

Notanumber wrote:

What has HenryThompson done I wonder to get banned. The words of the immortal John Cleese came to mind whilst reading his post, "Specialist subject the bleeding obvious"  but seemed unlikely to have otherwise got up anyone's nose and his 2 other posts were fine.
 

AI spam-bot
They're using new tactics to infiltrate, they set themselves up with some seemingly innocent posts to try and get you to think that they're genuine,  then they do a post that on the surface seems relevant but actually contains a spam link that has nothing to do with what the subject matter is. All hallmarks of an AI spam-bot
He's/her's/It's phrasing was a bit odd and the answers and advice was fairly generic, we were watching them from the outset, waiting of them to go in for the sell.
Your moderation and admin team are on the ball and will act when we  deem it necessary. Sadly there will be more of this and they will get better at it and harder to pick!

Not sure if this is helpful, but have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and then reconnecting it? Sometimes that can reset things and solve weird electrical issues.