How to jack up a VVC - the ladybird guide required!

I'm trying to change my coolant pipes for stainless steel ones but simply can't get the car high enough off the ground. I've got four axle stands and a trolley jack. Thought about getting ramps but 1) They're not wide enough for the tyres 2) I don't believe I can safely use ramps and axle stands at the same time.

If I had some bricks or old pieces of wood lying around it would make things easier - but sadly no. Any ideas please?
 

I had this problem when I attempted (and failed) to renew the cam belt. Basically I went to Jewsons and bought as many 4" thick concrete blocks as I could fit in the back of the estate car. Then "bit by bit" jacked it up and onto the blocks. I am fairly sure that the last lift at the back needed the small trolly jack I have balanced on one of those blocks. The front end went up a bit at a time using the same idea but using the standard jacking point. The back end I used the sub frame to fit the jack to rather than the standard point . can't remember why ~ possibly access around the car.
Yes, it was tight but lying on my back I could get underneath ~ just.

I tend to use the normal side jack and lift the car then use a bottle jack and with a 4" square wood block from an old pallet jack it up on the subframe until I get the axel stands in.

I have done this both front and rear, a bit of a faff, but it seems to work for me. I know what you mean about the ramps mine are too narrow as well. So I made some wider platforms from wood and attached to the top so at least supports the wheels at the highest point.

I have access to a 25 tonne trolley jack that lifts to more than two feet, no help to you but it made it very easy. 

At one time you used to be able to rent lift time at garages & that might still be the case. Small owner operators might be happy to let you use their lift at the end of the day when all the jobs are completed & it’s not time to go home.
There was a company who had a fully equipped workshop which you could hire, in part or whole, to do just those type of jobs, but he knew how to charge & that’s why he closed his doors.
We do our own work to save money & so it’s counterproductive to pay the saved money on an expensive slot in a fancy DIY facility.
Just a thought. Amongst a number of things of which I’m grateful is a warm stone built garage with a pit, I wish you all had those facilities.
M

Time for me to put my safety nazi hat on,
Balencing cars on cinder blocks is a bad idea! There is no way of knowing if there are hidden faults in the blocks, use proper stands deigned to support a car, especially if you getting under the bloody thing!
there is no reason not to use a combination of ramps and stands on solid level ground if done properly, just give the car a bloody good shake to make sure it’s stable before you crawl under it.
Remember wearing a whole car as a hat isn’t going to be a healthy good look!

Understand the caution and the concern about blocks etc.
The blocks I used were good quality blocks not just the low density stuff that break easily.
With the car on its wheels (chocked) at the front on the blocks it was "going nowhere fast". The back was on axle stands on the blocks to get the height/clearance underneath. With the axle stands at "less than full height" they were more stable on their base triangle than on one block and fully extended etc.
If I remember correctly I think I also had bottle jacks (screw type not hydraulic) under the acknowledged lifting points or under some other structurally sound place at the back "just in case" ~ can't remember where now.
No intention of wearing the car or "pulling the trigger!"