As someone who's skillset includes "Shotfirer" (the modern politically correct term for Power Monkey) otherwise known as having a licence to blow shit up with explosives.......I can tell you it's always best to be a good distance away from the shit that goes bang when fiddle arseing about with sources of detonation....ie: naked flames, sparks etc.Airportable wrote: Do not make any test connections to a fuel pump if there is petrol vapour about. This is a valid test but make up a test cable specifically for this job & with a wire long enough to be away from fumes.
DO NOT CONNECT A COUPLE OF BARE WIRES ADJACENT TO WHERE PETROL VAPOURS COULD BE PRESENT, your car runs on petrol vapour & it is a tiny spark that makes the whole lot work, just think what a big fat spark could do with twelve litres of petrol in the vicinity.
M
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It took me a little while, studding the pic, but once noticed, I laughed too!Roverlike wrote: I hope nowbody will understend this in wrong way .... it is just funny
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The only way to deal with that rust is to completely remove the lights, the cover and all the silicone shit to get back to the bare metal. The rust then needs to be dealt with.
If the removal is done with care the tail light conversion might be able to be saved. But that's a very big MAYBE!
I suspect that it wasn't done properly in the first place, with shitty workmanship, they probably sealed rust in under filler.
Another possibility is that the filler used is too rigid to deal with the body flex causing it to crack and let water in which in turn causing rust, a more flexible filler would be required or sufficient reinforcement applied to the area to prevent the flexing, the problem with that is that you might just transfer the problem to the next weakest point.
Probably easier to go back to using standard lights.
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