Mission impossible
- Notanumber
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I have been fitting new brake lines and when I was under there I noticed that the clutch line was ok but the flexible hose and pipe at the rear looked very poor.
Has anyone fitted the stainless one from front to to rear or would it be better to use the oe parts?
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- Airportable
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M
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Replace with ordinary steel pipe then
Why not apply some waxoil over those brake and clutch pipes including the nuts and exposed threads, in twenty years time they will still be good although the MOT tester will not like it.
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The weather God's smiled today and I got the rust repair done using a repair panel from Mike Satur, it took a bit of fiddling but I'm very pleased with the results.
I have also started preparing to remove the dreaded snapped bolts. I built up the remaining thread and welded a nut on...I will see if it works tomorrow.
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The chances of drilling perfectly and retapping are slim to none so what are my options?
Is helicoil strong enough to support the rear subframe?
Could I just go up a size to M10 instead?
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"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"
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Oh well I tried.
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- Airportable
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BSF, BSC & our great & venerable Whitworth all have relatives who just live around the corner & even if you have to buy the appropriate tap isn’t that going to make sense. You still can’t escape that captive nut though.
M
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I'm going to drill and tap the last one then torque it up and see what happens.
It's the last major thing that needs doing before the transplant can begin and it's really holding me up.
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I cut well above the crud and
with a bit of shaping I managed to get a good fit.
The cut section was fully welded and so was the return part ( this wasn't part of the original panel but I thought it worth using) I also copied the original spot welds by plug welding in the same place.
Before
After.
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- Airportable
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M
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