Engine Cover (Yes again)

Happy to have a look, there may be some room to move the speaker mount forward, i dont know how much space there is between the speaker and the grill. if you have some dimensions of the speaker i can have a look and see whats possible
i would need to know the magnet diameter and protrusion from the mounting face.

 

These heatserts were not readily available when I refurbished my fuel cap & the moulded in type were only available in packs of 100 unless you wanted to pay as much a suspect f might fetch.
Hence I made my own.
And again we see the value of our site; one member introduces us all to new products or ideas & everyone has the opportunity to benefit.
Thank you Daedalus for another great idea.
M

I roughly modelled up an ALPINE SXE-4625S 4x6" to see where the interference is, and surprisingly, it's at the bottom.
 

There is about 10mm plus of room at the bottom to allow for bigger speakers, however the gap under there is for the sound deadening. I have fitted silent coat on mine, so it wouldn't be an issue, but it may be for some others.

There is no room to move the speakers forward as the grill is very close to the front of the boxes. I think the best thing would be to add a hump or similar to clear larger magnets.

 

So, i think this would work,
     

I'm off this week, but when i get back next week, I will print a set off
 

So -  you print the hole undersize and then gentle / firmly / slowly (?) slide the hot heatserts in. The excess material flows around the insert and locks them into place.
Fascinating, and easy to, cock up if you don't know what you are doing I imagine. 

Yes, i print the hole to suit the shoulder of the insert so it acts as a guide,  i used to use just a plain soldering iron tip, but then i found these  which replace the tip in your soldering iron.

 


You can buy (or make) a drill press type attachment for a soldering iron to press them in, but there are no square edges on these to make it worthwhile.

The replacement 4x6" speakers I have : Mounting Diameter / Cut Out: 5.5 x 3.84 in. Outside Diameter: 5.94 x 3.84 in. Mounting Depth / Chassis Depth: 3.0 in.

I dont have the diameter of the magnet but remember thinking at the time that it looked almost as wide as the front of the speaker in the centre.

Daedalus = alchemist. I am seriously impressed.
What 3D printer would I need to do what you did and what software are you using? 

Our own Labyrinth creator, let us hope that these labyrinthine speaker enclosures don’t have their own Minotaur to cause too much booming base.
M

Fascinating technology and well done.
As I can just about get that worst bolt to start I don’t think I’d commission a T bar. But if time passes and I struggle more to get that bolt to start I think I’d come up with a large enough hole for the head to pass through and come up with some fiendishly clever washer arrangement.

you might think of 3d printing that stepped washer set.

You are nearly there. You don't need it to start.  Leave in place, open up the hole to pass over the head (as you suggested) and use a split washer.   Makes it easy peasy.
Make the central 3 hood latches removable as well and it is ALMOST fun. 

Hi

I have a Bambu H2S, and i use Onshape which is free for the modelling