280mm brakes (again)
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2003 MG TF 135 sunstorm
1979 MGB GT
Previously:
2002 115 TF + 1998 118 MG F
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the nut protects the thread & the spacer keeps concentricity, preventing buckling.
M
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After fitting the 280 mm discs on all 4 corners I thought I better check if the standard spare wheel fits.
I offered it up to the rear and I can tell you it doesn’t fit.
So a larger (standard wheel) will be required and ideally with a tread pattern than can rotate in either direction.
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I assumed if they went under the std alloys they would the spare.
It's freaked me out because I always have a good spare and the means to fit it.
Setting off on a road trip tomorrow!
In what way doesn't it fit?
Would a spacer help to pull it away from the calliper or is it the disc itself?
I have spacers.
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It suddenly came to me that the spare might not fit. Don’t know what triggered it other than we too aim to make a lengthy trip in a week or two.
So grumbling about it I jacked up the rear of the car and tried it. It went on but it was touching the rear corner of the caliper. I could see that if I fitted the wheel nuts and tightened them up it would put greater pressure on the caliper. In other words the caliper was pulling the wheel rearwards by about 2mm as seen when looking at the studs.
I don’t have spacers so cant say if that might make an improvement. I have painted the caliper black and as the spare rim is black viewing the situation was not practical. I know it was touching because the paint on the caliper had been scratched off.
If you try yours and it doesn’t foul I’d be interested to hear how thick the spacer is. But only if it doesn’t foul.
Yours might be different I have used Mike Satur’s bracket and disc. I think yours is TT and I think they used a totally different supplier for the disc and bracket. That may mean that the offset of the disc is different when yours is compared to mine. The bracket is probably matched to the disc offset.
I look forward to hearing how you get on.
My immediate solution was to put an old 16” rim with an old tyre in the boot. But if a spacer resolved it that would be a better solution.
Sleep well and I hope you have a good trip.
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I already have 3mm spacers on the rear and I have two spare. I will try the spare on tomorrow on the rear and see how mine fits..or doesn't.
If the spare fits without the spacers all well and good and if it needs the spacers I will put my other two in the jack and wheelbrace bag should I have a front puncture.
I will post the results before I leave.
Fingers crossed because driving knowing I haven't a spare will bother me.
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Yet deep down buried in our reptilian brain is the paranoid fear of getting a flat.
So we drag around everywhere we go what is a heavy, bulky and probably going to be a useless waste of space and is most certainly a massive pain it the arse! We also carry a jack and wheel brace with which to change tyres, these are often poor quality after thoughts that are not fit for purpose and were provided by the cars manufacturer, at a minimum cost......because they know how unlikely it is that the customer will ever need them and more than 1/2 of those customers wouldn't know how the change the damned tyre anyway!
When I would travel any distance in the MG I would carry a proper spare on the boot rack and free up the spare wheel well for extra luggage space.
The fact is we are more likely to need a spare clutch or head gasket, yet we tend to leave those at home, mind you there was one time I had to carry spare cylinder heads, other parts and tools enough to do the job.
I had an '82 Volvo 265GLE wagon (estate to you pomgolians) with the 2.8 V6 fuel injected engine.
Just before an urgent trip that would've taken me a third of the way across the continent, I had a head gasket failure, the trip was so urgent that I had no time to fix the problem before setting out, even though I had spare cylinder heads and all the stuff I needed to do the job at hand.
I rolled the dice and took a gamble, before I left, knowing it would destroy the heads that were fitted to the car, I torqued the head studs down as much as they would bare without braking, tipped in a couple of bottles of Irontite (miracle head gasket goop), lo and behold! the coolant leak stopped! So I loaded up all the gear to do a roadside cylinder head change if need be in the desert an set off on my uncertain way.
Fully expecting trouble.
To quote Blackadder: "You must do as needs must, when the Devil vomits in your kettle!"
Well it paid off, not only did I get to where I had to be, I then proceeded to drive around there for around 3 months and return home without any problem. Indeed It wasn't until I got home and unloaded did it fail, the day after I needed to go somewhere local @ 11/2 hours away, so a 3 hour return trip all up......of course it chose the fail near the furthest point from home, when I had no means to fix it with me! So I called Dad and asked him to bring the car trailer for the ride of shame home.
Still I was pushing my luck, so I couldn't really complain! The poor long suffering Volvo had done more than anyone could reasonably ask of it, that poor bloody car copped so much use and abuse over many years, it was an absolute bloody legend!
2/3rds of the distance across the continent, plus 3 month do daily driving about, on a blown head gasket that had been over torqued and "fixed" with Irontite!
"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"
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I bought a proper wheelbrace to be able to deal with getting a wheel off at the side of the road instead of the very short one supplied.
When my wife bought her Yaris it came with no spare but a can of inflatable soup and a mini compressor. Jeez Toyota!!
I was livid. How could she use that at the side of the road on her own?!
I bought a full size spare steel wheel and tyre from a company that realises their is a market for supplying such items.
Although she knows how to do it if she got stuck she could likely get assistance if needed. It's peace of mind.
That was 8 years ago and hasn't been needed yet.
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I just wrote a very comprehensive reply that vanished in to thin air!
So here is a compressed version!
Thank you for pointing this problem out. My spare does not fit with or without spacers.
The road I have to travel on is part of the NC500 and is nortorious for punctures!!
My temporary solution at 6 am this morning is to remove the useless spare and use the Toyota gloup kit. I have a new Falken tyre that now sits where the spare wheel once did.
My reasoning is that the gloup may get me to a country garage and I can get them to fit my tyre! The chances of anyone having a 15 inch tyre anywhere near the right profile are slim.
It's the best I can do right now.
When I return I will search for another alloy to do the job prooerly. The Falken tyre fits in the wheel well so a wheel should too.
Thanks once again! I feel a little bit better prepared.
By the way I fully recommend that Halfords wheelbrace.
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And thank you for the update. I posted this feature on this topic as I wondered if you had a solution.
As I said the 16” wheel with a tyre mounted on it fits in the boot area (I puzzled for a bit why the fixing screw would not engage - once the logo trim was punched out problem solved). I think it is very tight and with little clearance between tyre and lid. But that suggests a 15” wheel/tyre will also fit.
Good lunch with your trip.
PS I had one of those handle extending devices shown in your images. The socket went on the nuts of 3 wheels but not the 4th. The factory job was the same. I tried a different socket from a similar tool and that went on to all the wheel nuts. So that one is in the car’s pack.
Whilst the extra length is all but essential the design does make supporting the business end whilst applying torque essential. The old fashioned multi arm spider is the best in my opinion and the closest to that I can think off is a standard “Tommy-Bar” socket set item, a 5” extension and two short pipe sections to add extra length to the Tommy-Bar. But I’ll live with the device shown in the image.
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