Replacement of Front wheel bearings No "How-To" guide visible?

I am pleased to say that my 2002 TF135 has passed it's latest MOT, but Not so pleased that it has advisories on 5 items.
The MOT report slight play on front wheel bearings, so I intend to replace both, though I can ONLY detect slight play on the offside.

My question2 are:

1. are there any there any tips or warnings about this job/

2. I looked under "How to Guides" but cannot find anything relevant (see below):



As regards the other advisories:
2 advisories are utter rubbish, ("discoloured lenses") I will attach photos of the "offending" lenses, I think any rational being with working eyesight will agree with me!

one :
"Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement, offside rear (Front track control arm outer bush) [5.3.4 (a) (i)]"

Where I can not detect ANY play, but more of that on another post.

Have a look at this post, Wheel bearings The truth is a hydraulic press is the preferred method. This is not an easy diy job.

I replaced both my front wheel bearings a couple of years back when rebuilding the subframe. I used a wheel bearing puller Kit off the bay. As long as you have a good vice to hold the hub in it was a very doable job for the DIY'er.
is a good video to help you on the way

That video is a how to do it the hard way!

!st thing is piss off that stupid wobbly old handyman carpentry bench. With the damned thing wobbling about most of the effort used in trying to do the job is lost to the shitty bench moving about!
The work piece should be held securely on a rigid bench. then most of the energy expended goes directly into the jobat hand and not dissipated by the wobbly bench.
You wouldn't believe how much easier it is to do this sort of stuff, when you hold the work piece securely.
Even when he uses a proper vice, it is mounted to that crap bench so the whole lot flops about like a cock in a shirt sleeve!
You should have have a good vice securely mounted on a good stable bench, but as it's not always possible for awkwardly shaped work-pieces to be held well in a vice, then maybe you need to take the time to fabricate bracket that the work piece can be securely bolted to, using to bolt holes and flanges that are on the work-piece, this holding bracket should be strong enough to hold to part properly and must supply good support by not putting uneven load on the work-piece. And may possibly bolt directly to the bench or be made in such a way as to be held in your vice.
The extra time and effort spent here will pay dividends later in the job, by saving you time, energy, frustration and stress.... not to mention lessening the chances of injury to both yourself and the components!

2nd thing is it is much better to use a press for this sort of thing, though off coarse one isn't always available, and sometimes one must make do, but again holding the work piece securely will make the job easier and be less likely to cause damage to the components and you!
Ask your self would it be easier and safer to take the component to a friendly garage, engineering workshop or well equipped mate (no I don't mean well equipped in the trouser department) to get the press work done?

3rd those tools he was using are cheap and nasty handyman rubbish, the first thing that horrified me was when he was waving about that damned shifter (adjustable wrench) the best place for those is sitting on the shelf unsold back at the hardware store... Having said that they can have their uses but none of those uses involve nuts and bolts, they can be useful in fabrication for bending things like flat bar held in a vice.
Shifters usually only damage bolt heads by rounding them off.... use the correct spanner for the job!
Using those elcheapo screw drivers to remove the circlip by belting them with a hammer was made more difficult than necessary because much of the impact from the hammer was being dissipated through the handle of the screwdriver for this sort of used the screwdriver should be of the tang through type, where the metal shaft (tang) of the screwdriver extends all the way through the handle and have a metal flange for striking



You should have at least two sets of screwdrivers, one is to be used for rough treatment like this, and the other is to be kept nice for the undoing and doing up of screws without damaging them.

If a bolt head is metric, use metric tools on it!...If it is SAE (fractions of an inch) use those tools on it... if it is Whitworth or British standard then use those tools on it!.........Not exactly rocket science is it!
When you use the wrong spanner for the job you risk rounding off the head, thereby making your job harder that it needs to be, both for you and the next poor bastard that works on it! Probably the tradesman the has to fix your shitty workmanship. This will cost you more than than good tools.
Or there is a worse possibility, a sloppy fitting spanner can slip injuring you!
There are some exceptions to this but they are last resort and should only be done by someone who has the experience and knowledge of what they are doing...don't try this at home kiddies!

The puller he used wasn't very good there are much better ones out there, trying to juggle all 3 jaws is a pain in the arse, a 2 jaw puller is easier to use.
There are time when a 3 jaw is the best type to use butthey should only be used then. I have musch more to say on this subject but here and now is not the place.
I can see a need for proper tool tutorials at a later date.

Good tools may cost more than cheap rubbish, but remember quality is to be enjoyed and used again long after the purchase price has been forgotten
But something that doesn't work is expensive no matter how little it cost!

I quite agree a good solid fixed vice is always a good start, but I think the main point of posting that particular video was that it's not too difficult to replace the bearings even with some crap tools.
I used a similar bearing pusher tool and will no doubt never replace another wheel bearing, so for a one off was an inexpensive choice. A quality set of tools are always a plus doing any job, and throughout my engineering life have never scrimped when it came to building my tool box.
Even now as my work days are behind me, I still have a wish list of tools but I do tend to balance it against how often I will use them.

I used a very similar tool as shown in the video for removing and installing a wheel bearing over the winter and it worked very well, was easy to remove and install a new wheel bearing.

The only difficult part was removing the circlip, I have to make a pointy tool from 5mm steel rod in order to get in behind the circlip to force it out.

The reason I bought the bearing tool was because the last time I took the F to a garage to have the wheel bearing replace the bent the hub while removing the wheel bearing and then reinstalled the new bearing and the bent hub.

There’s some good stuff there. I haven’t looked at the video, I will if I need to have them done again, my friend did them last time due to illness.
Good tools are an investment & I still have the cerebral tussle when I’m faced with a one off job where a grossly inferior Chinese junk tool would suffice. A couple of quid plays twenty for a tuppenny job.
Cobb’s comments on adjustable spanners & spanners in general, mirror my thoughts & I’ve been known to shout at the television when so called experts are shown using adjustable spanners.
M