Vibrating Instrument binnacle cure

I'm sure I am not the first to suffer this irritating vibration/noise but is there a cure for it?
On a lengthy journey in the last few days and whilst my wife was driving I was able to seek out the source of a rattle that is irritating to say the least. By shoving a bit of cardboard between the top of the dashboard and the half-moon instrument binnacle it was possible to reduce the rattle caused by the two plastic components rubbing against each other.
Has anyone managed to cure this in a more professional way?
I know there are plastic/rubber strips with a "P" profile that can be bought from various sources and was thinking that forcing a strip douwn between the two components around the binnacle might be a possible cure even if not ideal.
In a perfect world it might be possible to remove the half-moon plastic instrument shroud (is that easy?) and use a sealant such as "everbuild" mastic or similar before re fitting the half-moon surround or the "p" profile strip.
Has anyone got better ideas?

The instrument binnicle cover on these things has a bad habit of cracking and breaking...the plastic is very brittle.
I wouldn't be surprised if the mountings aren't broken, as for a solution you probably need to find another...but good luck with that, they're as rare as rocking horse shit!

Contact Paul Jakabi Goldsmith, [email protected], or https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100009353902908

Paul makes an excellent reproduction of the binnacle from fiberglass. I've installed his reproduction binnacle on both of our Fs.

The rear binnacle mounts on both my TFs were broken and the things rattled terribly.  It is definitely a part of the car that seems to have been built backwards without thought of removal.  The binnacle is assembled to the dash from underneath but the screw heads are inaccessible though as they are hidden by a square section ventilation pipe which must have been the next part fitted to the dash assembly on the production line.
In both cases I removed the binnacles, reinforced the front mounting points with small washers and deployed soft plastic U shaped panel edging around the lower edges to stop them clattering against the dash.  One binnacle had a couple of cracks in but turned out fine once i had repaired with bumper filler and reinforced the underside. A coat of textured paint followed by a couple of coats of matching upholstery dye and a matte laquer sorted it convincingly though.

There are, in addition to the front peripheral screws, two at the back & these share the same fate as the rest of the binnacle shroud, they brake.
It’s the absence of these which give the percussive accompaniment to your journey. I have to say it is a looong time since I did this job, so you might have to interpret what you see against my recollections, but we’ve managed to get here by applying common sense, why should that fail us now.
Unfasten the front screws & lift away the shroud, you will see the remains of the original fixtures. Dispense with the wreckage & push the screws back through the dash, these will fall into the heating duct. A magnet & a little inspiration will recover these. You can buy from your friendly eBay store U shaped rubber / plastic edging, run this around the bottom edge of the dome & reassembl.e

Sorry, I was never good at posting pictures at the best of times & now with the new look I’ve been pushed back by three years. I was thinking of adding an accompanying picture for my recent comment & ended up posting without these masterpieces; I’ll try via this route. 

I did mine over 2 years ago and I've been to sleep since so the details are fuzzy, as mentioned to do it as OE it's a dash out job so no go. I used metal reinforcing plates from the local hardware shop bent to fit the curvature of the binnacle and then fit to the dash panel underneath these were then 2 packed to the binnacle. To locate the plates to the dash panel I put the binnacle in place and marked the holes, drilled (carefully) the dash panel and used those screw in plasterboard/dry wall fixings (2 packed in again) the mounting screws then go into these.
I used the plates because the holes allow the 2 pack to squeeze thru and make a good bond with the binnacle but cleaning and keying is also important. 

These seems to be a very typical problem. While I have been fortunate so far not to have it - but have read about how difficult it is to repair - would it not be possible to simply remove the instruments and then put a thick amount of silicone glue all around the inside edge of the binnacle where it contacts the dash? Regular glue would not hold (it cracks off the plastic after a while) but my experience is that silicone has sufficient 'flex' to work well. Has anyone ever tried this solution?

It could work. I think maybe the only reason silicone has not been the go to fix could be concern about the messiness of silicone, applying it thickly enough to provide strong adhesion whilst leaving only a very small and clean visible join.
To avoid a distracting reflection in the windscreen It would need to be in a neutral colour and not to be shiny ; a lesson learned from my first attempt, white plastic U channel edging was swiftly removed and replaced by more discrete black edging.

There is a practical advantage in having the binnacle relatively easily removable as it can make changing the dash bulbs less fiddly

I’ve said on a number of occasions that had I found a replacement shroud with the fixings intact you would all be the first people to hear about it & if no one made me an exaggerated offer for it I would ceremoniously remove them.
Taking the instrument cluster out isn’t a regular process but when it’s required you want it to be straightforward, how you’re supposed to undo the connectors with the shroud in place is a mystery. Older & less prehensile hands make this hard enough as things stand, calling for a grand child to help would be the only option it those fixings remained.
M

Made some progress today and have the binacle off and in the process of doing that one of the white nylon securing blocks dropped out of place (the thin bridge of plastic had been lost in the passage of time). Can I find it can I heck. It dropped out and presumably into the area around the fuse panel.
This is one of the blocks that locate around the rim nearest the driver and accept the final securing screws.
They are about 6 to 8mm square roughly.
Anyone know of a source for these please? Rimmers don't appear to stock them.

I replaced all of those nylon inserts with rivnuts epoxied in. The original design was poor & the assembly poorly executed , there is insufficient material around those inserts to adequately resist the turning moment of a self tapping screw when initially assembled, thus the frame is weakened from the start.
Fitting rivnuts reenforces the framework & allows you to reassemble without the original fitting dictating the torque required to tighten; that remains firmly in your hands. The machine screw you are now using is totally under control.
M