If you have concerns about the superlock, you can just cut the wire to disable it permanently. There are posts on how to do this. It seems very simple if you want to do that. I don't think it adds much in terms of security and the low value of these cars means they are not that likely to be stolen.
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I have had positive experience purchasing second hand parts from the MGF Centre in Wolverhampton (although I was able to source a new door locking mechanism from Rimmer Bros). They might have a supply of RHD door lock mechanisms.
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The locks tend to give a bit a warning before they go. They make a sort of 'whirring' sound prior to the 'machine gun'. Basically the inner plastic mechanism eventually fails and is not repairable. Once you start to hear any sounds, it is best to lock only using the key (on my car the superlock and lock occur at the same time, that is how it was programmed) and plan on replacement ASAP. This is what happened to me earlier this year. Of course, as others have said, it is best to make sure the lock is lubricated regularly to help ensure longevity. Replacement is fairly straightforward as long as you can open the door!
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You could even consider just painting the underneath portion of the sill (only). This would not be visible but it would still reduce noise. I find the sills make quite a bit of noise when dirt is kicked up from the font wheels and resonates when it hits the underside of the front sills. That said, I guess one could also opt for front mud flaps for the same effect.
There are also internal frame sprays that might have the same effect from the inside. Not sure, never tried this. There are access holes for spraying into the front sills in the front wheel wells behind the plastic wheel guard. For example:
Eastwood Internal Frame Anti-Rust Coating, 14 oz. Spray
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Another area to consider for sound deadening is the back of the panels surrounding the side air intakes. I am not sure of it is different for the MGF, but on a MG TF if you tap on the panel surrounding the air intake grille is sounds hollow and terrible. There is basically one large thin metal cosmetic panel that runs from the rear of the car all the way to the front of the the sill area. The area around the vent opening has very little structural support and will rattle you tap gently on it. Compare this panel with your recently sound deadened door panels and you will observe quite a difference!
If you remove the vent cover (easy to do - see other posts for this) and remove the black plastic air tube, you can access a fair amount of the back side of the metal panel (well not so much in the forward sill area unless you have very thin arms and small hands). Clean it first then apply sound deadening material as far as your arm can reach is all areas. The difference will be quite remarkable.
Clean out your 4 sill drain holes while you are at it.
You can also access the rear area of the panel via small openings in the boot area on the sides behind the carpet.
The front sill area cannot be accessed (for sound deadening).
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I agree with this assessment but would add that it worth to do the boot, including the floor and lid. The most noticeable difference will be when you close the boot lid! You can also somewhat access the inside of the rear quarter panels and put a piece in there (similar to doing the inside of the doors but even tighter).
While I have not done it, I wonder if it makes sense to put a piece inside the front fenders (after having removed the plastic fender covers).
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Adding sound deadening materials to these cars makes such a huge difference in ride quality.
I installed the MGF / TF kit from NKGroup (which includes a replacement pad for the rear shelf).
I also added a bit of extra sound deadening adhesive material inside the doors. It makes the car feel much more refined and comfortable. The doors close with a clunk instead of a tinny ping. It is amazing what some material can do.
In addition to sound deadening the floors, you may also want to consider installing some foam mat material under the footwell (I used some foam 'puzzle' tiles that were cut to size). Just make sure it is dense foam. In addition to making things quieter, it also has the benefit of raising the level of the carpet to solve the 'pull away' problem around the door edge. It is a really elegant and simple solution to a very common problem
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Not mine and no affiliation.. I came across this recently and thought I would share it in case anyone was looking for one. They are sort of rare and hard to find (if you are looking for one...). I have only seen images of these from way back on Dieters site. At the time, I think there was an identical one made for the Z3. The luggage rack is the earlier type. I do not think the suitcase will attach (without straps) to the later type.
Official Mg F Luggage Rack and Suitcase | eBay
Images from Dieter's site:
MGF boot rack options
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