Sound deadening on the cheap!

Did you just put the bitumastic pad on there or did you add a bit more sound insulation? If not try some closed cell foam, I used to get loads of it from work, because it was so cheap loads got thrown into the skips. There is one variant that is used under laminate flooring that's about 8mm thick and has a heat reflecting foil on one surface. 

I do know the foam you are talking about but I just put the bitumen tape on the panel.
It has to help in some way because that panel is bolted on and will be like a drumskin.
I can't drive it yet to see if it's any better due to snow.
It may be difficult adding thickness because of the screw lengths for the poppers.
EDIT: This is all suck it and see but thinking about it there is a difference between sound deadening and sound proofing.
The reason I am using stick on tape is to kill the panels vibrations. Laying foam on it wouldn't stop the vibrations but would add to what's already there to soundproof those vibrations more.
I think I will definitely use tape and foam on the floor. My joiner friend uses it under laminate flooring.
Did I ever mention that I love this car?!

This is a really interesting topic for me as I still haven't done under the dash or the bonnet and boot lid.
I recently fixed the boot leak but found that I was still getting water in from condensation.  
Do you think that sound deadening or some other type of insulation would help?

I did under the bonnet but it hasn't stopped condensation.
The day after I did the bonnet I had a look to see if any had fallen off but all was ok but the tape had the same condensation on it as the bare metal.
I am still going to do the boot lid though because I think I am improving the drive 2% at a time!
Need to do under the floor carpets and any under the dash I can get to once they are out.
You were right about the doors! That made a big difference.

When you do the floor pans you will probably find them in good condition, but if you find any rust bubbles then I would recommend rubbing them down and treating with kurust or something similar before attaching the sound proofing. 

Thanks!
The car is amazingly rust free, in fact I can't believe how lucky I am.
I have BA Phosphate 80 for anything I find and will paint on top of that.
So I take it that under the carpets and underlay the floor is bare metal?
If so anything I put down must help.

I didn't find bare metal..it did have a dusting of paint but not much more than that. 

Thanks for your input..when I said bare metal I meant no deadening..I was hoping they would have painted it! 😁

Managed to get thru the snow on the forest track and on to black tarmac.
The difference in ride and sound is staggering.
I haven't done the floor pan yet and  under the dash where the carpet ends but I am sure it is going to make even more of a difference. Hopefully tomorrow.
This is a job worth doing, it's not imagination.

 

Nice rust free floorpan..but what were they thinking...yes I know...cost.

 

Drivers side done and all back together.
This will ride like a Maybach when it's finished.
Passenger side tomorrow...rain and light stopped play.
Never stopped Yorkshire cricketers though..we were tuf.

 
Passenger floorpan was as clean as the drivers side and free of any sound deadening.
The car is completed as far as this work is concerned.
The difference it has made to the car is staggering. I do not exaggerate.
I bought a pair of tweeters after learning on here that the car was alteady wired for them.
I think I was the first person to remove the door cards as everything looked original. It was then I noticed the lack of sound deadening and the two crash bars against the doorskin. It set me off on this journey.
Total cost for 4 rolls was £66. It has lifted the car in to another league.

Conclusion: 
1.The doors are the biggest vibration source. Doing those first and the effect it had on the car spurred me on to do more.
2. The floorpan is next as it is a huge area that is inside the cabin. It has cut down on road noise and it just feels like a better quality of ride as suspension bumps aren't transmitted inside the cabin as much as before.
3. Behind the seats. Covering the tank panel made a difference. Not as big as the first two.
4. The engine cover. It is already covered by the "dead dog" insulation but it did help.
5.Under the bonnet. Not sure if it made any difference. I figured anything in front of the ears must help but can't quantify really.

There was a secondary benefit for me. I have only had the car 2 months and I am getting to know it. Removing the seats, carpet etc. allowed me to see the condition of the car and how it is built. I am definitely the first person to remove the seats and carpet as there was not a mark on any of the fasteners. I now know how the boot/throttle cables are run and the loom too.
I like the car. It will be my last classic build and I will get it how I want it when funds allow but I can't help thinking that anything I do will just make it better...rather than modding it and still having a rattling car!
I encourage others to try it. The car has a very capable chassis and now it's a quiet and enjoyable chassis too.