Locked driver’s door

One product will sort the lock and the other will turn your door in to a Golf clunk!

I used the Bostic stuff..10m x 150mm.
I found by removing the speaker I could get in to do the whole door panel.
Go right up to the top of the panel.
Stand back and be amazed your door not only loses thst tinny rattle but your lock works too.😉😁
It's ok...you don't have to thank me..God blessed me with humility..😁😁😁😁

Delbourt wrote:

Good news and worth knowing.
Thank you David that helps me a lot.
David Aiketgate replied:-
To an earlier post
As to what is and isn't alarmed.
1/. One fob press locks the doors and sets the ultrasonic internal movement sensor.
2/. A double press of the fob sets the door locks to superlock. If the car is left with the roof down, the doors can not be opened by operating the internal door handles.
3/. Using the key to lock the car, locks the doors but disables the internal sensor. Useful for leaving dogs or small humans in the car. Discretion advised.

So, by using the key the internal movement sensor is disabled. Ok, got that. Is it possible to engage the super lock by using the key only and not by using the fob?
There may be situations where superlocking could be an advantage but without engaging the movement sensor (leaving the car unattended in remote area for the day close to a popular path or view point). A movement sensor activation by a fly, casual contact by an innocent person/animal or heat shimmer would be an unwelcome disturbance and probably flatten the battery.

David Aiketgate replied:-

Nope, not possible to superlock without the internal sensor. You could always unplug the sensor, or introduce a switch into the circuit.🤔
 

My car has no internal movement sensor, I dunno if a P/O binned it because it was nothing but trouble or maybe it wasn't fitted........I dunno and don't care much, pretty sure I would only end up binning it anyway!

Well, I cleaned and lubricated anything I could see moving, including the rods at both ends. Then refitted the lock … eventually … I can’t believe that was the best way they could come up with to fit a door lock! I’d love to see how they were fitted in the factory. 
With more than a little trepidation, I tentatively closed and, using the fob, locked the door. 
I pressed to unlock button with exactly the same result as before, lots of clicking, the button comes up the retracts again and the door remains locked. It won’t open from inside, outside or using the key. 
As the door card is still safely removed, I tried lifting the tab that appeared to be the problem before, only this time the door stayed firmly locked. 
After numerous tries disconnecting the battery mid click to catch the interior button up, with no more success, the light was going so I’ve given up for now and come inside. 
New locks for RHD driver’s door seem to be no longer available, I’m wary of second hand as it may have the same issue but I don’t appear to have any other options. 
Bloody car!!! 😡

2nd hand lock mechanisms from one of the respectable specialist breakers should be fine. These blokes know what they are about

That is a real bummer.
I was sure a good clean and lubrication was all it needed.
It sounds like a solenoid from what you describe with the clicking but I'm guessing.
I hope you find a s/h one that has been tested.
Good luck.

Ahh! The”machine gun” melody of the rattling lock.
What a complete pain. I bought a second hand lock, cleaned it externally, washed it out with switch cleaner and re greased it in readiness for fitting. Roll forward a few months and it was fitted (and I know what you mean by being difficult to fit - I had the thing in and out a few times becoming proficient at it . I’d say 10 minutes max).
Anyway replacement fitted it locks/unlocks on the door button, locks/unlocks on the fob button. With some trepidation I tried the super lock. Not sure if it is good or bad but that part didn’t work. So until I remove it again to disable that aspect I live in fear of pressing the lock button too many times.
Good luck with getting it out again.
On re fitting it might be worth “fooling” the system by “closing the latch” with a screw driver rather than fully closing the door.

Notanumber wrote:

2nd hand lock mechanisms from one of the respectable specialist breakers should be fine. These blokes know what they are about

The problem is that there’s not many about from the specialists. So far it’s eBay or nothing. 😢
 

TA22GT wrote:

That is a real bummer.
I was sure a good clean and lubrication was all it needed.
It sounds like a solenoid from what you describe with the clicking but I'm guessing.
I hope you find a s/h one that has been tested.
Good luck.

Thank you. 
I’m also blaming the solenoid and guessing it works but doesn’t have the oomph any more to pull hard enough. Happens to us all at some point I guess! 🙄
 

Delbourt wrote:

Ahh! The”machine gun” melody of the rattling lock.
What a complete pain. I bought a second hand lock, cleaned it externally, washed it out with switch cleaner and re greased it in readiness for fitting. Roll forward a few months and it was fitted (and I know what you mean by being difficult to fit - I had the thing in and out a few times becoming proficient at it . I’d say 10 minutes max).
Anyway replacement fitted it locks/unlocks on the door button, locks/unlocks on the fob button. With some trepidation I tried the super lock. Not sure if it is good or bad but that part didn’t work. So until I remove it again to disable that aspect I live in fear of pressing the lock button too many times.
Good luck with getting it out again.
On re fitting it might be worth “fooling” the system by “closing the latch” with a screw driver rather than fully closing the door.

Thank you. 
Wow, 10 minutes is impressive, it takes me far longer than that to assemble to tools and go out into the cold!
Closing the latch while the door is open is a great idea, wish I’d thought of that before I closed the door. 
I’m now thinking that whichever way I open the door, and what/whichever lock I fit, I’ll simply leave the plugs undone and remove the solenoid issues from the equation. 
 

When I say 10 minutes I mean with the door card off etc not just from a cold start with everything assembled and the door shut!
 

The locks tend to give a bit a warning before they go. They make a sort of 'whirring' sound prior to the 'machine gun'. Basically the inner plastic mechanism eventually fails and is not repairable. Once you start to hear any sounds, it is best to lock only using the key (on my car the superlock and lock occur at the same time, that is how it was programmed) and plan on replacement ASAP. This is what happened to me earlier this year. Of course, as others have said, it is best to make sure the lock is lubricated regularly to help ensure longevity. Replacement is fairly straightforward as long as you can open the door!