Locked driver’s door

Click on the highlighted blue link in David's post.
It looks like a good read.

Cobber wrote:

…
I could be wrong but I do seem to recall something about some of the low spec  (poverty pack) 1.6 litre cars  had locks on both sides as they didn't have central locking.

In my quest to find a replacement lock, I’ve seen an advert for a non central locking actuator for the very early cars, at  an astronomical price. 
It appears that soon we’ll only be able to get LHD locks in the UK and will have to drill the extra key hole. 
 

R40MGF wrote:

Hopefully this photo should help give you a better idea of what you need to do.  

this is in the unlocked position. 
 

This is in the locked position. 

I've just had a bit of an Eureka moment!
 Looking back at R40MGF’s excellent and very helpful photos, while trying to depress the lock tab, I found that it wouldn’t depress fully (even using a screwdriver or similar) if the battery was disconnected or not fully charged. 
So I’d suggest to anyone experiencing similar issues, make sure the battery is connected and in tip top condition before you give up totally on your nicely lubricated lock not moving correctly. 

 

It would be interesting to see if the same lock mechanisms were used on any other Rover cars

I have had good experience purchasing second hand parts from the MGF Centre in Wolverhampton (although I was able to source a new door locking mechanism from Rimmer Bros). They might have a supply of RHD door lock mechanisms.

Corbridge lad on eBay has both LHS & RHS locks, he gets some useful stuff from time to time & although he can’t be classed as cheap, I recon he’s Ok
I’ve met him a few times & found him to a personable individual. The items I have had were good & clean, I don’t live too far away from him, so carriage isn’t a problem, plus if I go the long way round I can have a run up the Ribble valley, returning via the Trough of Bowland.
M

Ahhh...Trough of Bowland...memories of my night rallying days...that and Clapham Station...flat in fifth until you chickened out.

Good to have these contacts.

Today I have read up a bit more on this topic and am puzzled as to how the situation is to be overcome if "superlocking" has taken place.
So here is my question
Without access to the door when it is open it is not possible to remove the screws that hold the lock to the door case. Does this mean that once the door card is destroyed to get access to the lock that you have to basically dismantle the lock in-situ such that you can release the interlock that creates the "superlock"?
I ask because as I understand it once "superlock" is activated an interlock is deployed within the lock case that prevents any of the other rod mechanisms from having any effect ~ simply put they are disabled. Or is there something more obvious that I'm overlooking.

Within the case there are three microswitches, 1 to sense if the door is closed/open, 1 to sense if the system is locked or unlocked, and 1 to sense if the key has been used to lock/unlock the door. And the ECU determines whether to power the standard lock or superlock (and which way to operate the motor).
So again if the fob is not having any effect on unlocking the door and superlock has been deployed I cant see any other way of opening the door other than dismantling the lock in situ. Am I wrong? If so please explain.

My only other thought would be to turn ignition on (possibly start the engine) and disconnect the accelerometer that senses that you have run into the big tree. Then see what happens. Or could it be a weak earth? If so where?

Great questions.
The "weak earth" at the end caught my attention as so many electrical faults are down to a bad earth in the same way a broken neutral causes so many electrical problems.
After reading the horror stories about "superlock" I might just stop locking my doors.

Re reading #210209 the door may not be super-locked. If not there may still be some hope of getting it open.

If I were to find myself in this unfortunate position where the door card had to be destroyed to gain access to the lock, any finesse in opening the lock body in the vane hope of resurrecting the faulty/suspect lock mechanism would fall to the appropriate & largest appliance I could get in the space available & lay to waste my adversary.
Even if reparable would you chance a second door card?
M

Don't disagree with that. But lets assume that after wrecking the door card you have access to the lock. If it is superlocked the mechanism prevents any movement of any of the other features as far as I can see.
So, if you cant open the door to access the three retaining screws how do you "do something" that opens the door. The only thing I can think of is to dismantle the lock so that the interlock created by the superlock can be defeated.
Or, what am I missing?