https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266960075744?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=UpGj-3oUS0O&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=7vIyORCuRHq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Hi...is this the same gentleman by any chance?
He does rears too. Very attractive prices if the fit is good.
I am relying on my memory of 2 years ago, but I THINK that Ebay ad is the supplier I used.
As regards "if the fit is good", there is a fundamental problem with ANY adaptor bracket which locates on the two surfaces MG spot-faced to accept the heads of the M12 bolts, rather than the fully machined side of the same holes which the calliper carrier attaches to when in the standard, 240mm disc position. I tried to explain this problem to the supplier when he blamed "inconsistent machining" for the difficulty I experienced. my email text was:Thanks for the quick reply. You mention "Inconsistency" in MG's machining, which is undeniably true BUT, to be fair to them, the Al Alloy adaptor is attached to (and effectively positioned by) the two surfaces MG spot-faced to accept the heads of the M12 bolts, NOT the reference face of the standard callipers. I suspect the machining tolerance for THAT (reference) face is much tighter. Inaccuracy/inconsistency of the spot-facing only effects the depth of penetration of the attachment bolts, which would only become a problem if it was wrong by a couple of mm.
The end result of this is that you MUST be prepared to carefully check that the alloy adaptor with the calliper carrier attached ends up with equal width spaces either side of the disc. As the 280mm disc does NOT have any retaining bolts (as per the std 240mm discs) you need 4 bolts with the correct thread to suit the wheel studs. It is a metric fine size IIRC. These will allow you to bolt the disc on without the wheel, so that you can check you have the right washers between adaptor & Hub. Hope that makes sense!!
You need to read the Word doc I sent to help limit confusion.
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I notice you have calliper spacers for bigger discs..280mm route?
I'm going that way and wondering whatsort of upgrade it is as far as stopping power. I will also fit harder pads.
I don't have ABS.
Thanks..
Yes, 280mm discs in a kit I bought on Ebay from someone called William Naylor. If you contact him directly he could sell to you direct and avoid Ebay commission: All the spelling mistakes are his, not mine!
The text of a reply he sent me after I queried a few things is below: william naylor <[email protected]>
Sent: 16 February 2023 11:16
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: 280mm Disc conversion kit MGF/TF Hello john thanks for the information
this is the first time i have heard more packing is needed this is due to the inconsistancy of MGs machining .. usually one does suffice either thick or thin
Re centering ring i have never found one necessary .. it was on a rear conversion using Peugeot 266mm discs this was done by VHS
they slotteed out the holes ( crazy idea ) so you had to have a centering ring
I have met Roger a few times at the NEC and we have chatted about brakes
The design you have is years old and was done with that was available at the time i reverse engineered it .due to demand and have sold many along with the 280 rear as they compliment each other 240mm all round up to 280m mall round
I designed a new set up using mini cooper 294mm discs and calipers it is in my view far better engineered than the 280m ,but costs more due to the amount of new parts in it
Its one of my Freestyles at the moment .. if only they had made it like that
Thanks for info .. i will keep and eye on it
did you have a 280mm rear as well . ?
W naylor I am attaching a Word document which you might find useful. The braking effect is MUCH better than standard, my one reservation is that the adaptor places the calliper about 1mm too far out. As a result, the discs are contacted all the way out to the edge (no bad thing perhaps?) but a lip only 1mm or so wide develops on the outer edges of the pads. PM me if you want more details, I took plenty of pictures.
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Does the main hub nut undo the regular way, anticlockwise, on both sides ?
Yes, both sides are conventional right-hand threads. I see that there is only one part number: (RFG100090 for "with ABS" version)) for the TF front stub axles, which confirms that the threads must be identical.
I did the LHS earlier today. The only difficult job was, as on the RHS, the lower joint, which was just as rusty. A liberal soaking with WD40 and the near vertical cold chisel helped. I suspect that the design of this joint is to blame. There is an open slot which water, mud and other corrosive road grime will enter and soak the pinch bolt + the hole it sits in.
My strut worked on the LHS with minor modification adding a cut out on the flank to make it ambidextrous.
As you can see from the photo, this strut gives plenty of headroom to allow the balljoint taper on the top balljoint to be removed and re-inserted after the bearings have been replaced.
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I have found that a wet vacuum cleaner and standard carpet-cleaning products work well for initially cleaning dirty hoods. I bought a dirty, secondhand hood and frame, (with a glass screen) to replace my generally better hood which had a cracked plastic screen). Perhaps needless to say, after a heavy dose of carpet-cleaning products, thorough rinsing with clean water in the wet vac, followed by a few days drying then fresh waterproof and dye will be essential.
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I have just replaced the Front Wheel Bearing on my TF. I followed the instructions in the workshop manual, but that misses-out any instruction to remove the ABS Sensor from the hub!!
I also followed advice in Roger Parker's "MGF and TF Restoration" book, which has wise advice which allows the job to be done without resorting to various Rover special tools.
Having completed one side and found that making a couple of wooden struts made the job much easier I thought I would pass-on my experience.
I searched this site for a "How-To" on the subject of front wheel bearing change, but there does not seem to be one. Cj'sFront Upper Ball Joint replacement - How ToIs very helpful, but does not cover the problems I had with getting enough room to pull the stem of the upper joint out of the hole in the top suspension arm. so here are my ideas:
The workshop Manual shows this method of holding the upper arm high enough:
My attempts to use that location resulted in crushed wood and nowhere nearly enough clearance to remove the balljoint.
This DID work:
A clamp helped keep it in situ:
This shows shapes & sizes, the longer strut was used to jack-up the upper arm.
The scars highlighted in red are where the wood touches the suframe. Removing wood in these areas helps keep the strut in-situ. The strut shown is what I made and used on the right front. (Drivers side on a British, RHD car). For the LHS, the cut-outs will need to be on the opposite face.
I found that the hardest job was lifting & separating the Hub from the lower suspension joint. There was more rust on the pinch bolt than anywhere else on the whole suspension assembly. I had to use a cold chisel (see bottom of photo). I aligned that chisel as near vertical as possible and had to thump seven shades of sh*** out of it to move the hub up and off the lower balljoint.
My other advice relates to the removal of the 32mm/1.25" hub nut. The Workshop Manual blithely says "Knock back hub nut stake and remove hub nut" Yeah--- right!
As this nut has to be retightened to 210Nm, and the "Stake" is difficult to totally eliminate/return to an undistorted curve, then you can expect this nut to put up a FIGHT! (Mine did!!!)
My advice, as-per Roger Parker is:
1. Loosen whellnuts slightly
2. Jack up that corner and use axle stands securely.
3. Remove roadwheel and push-out the central MG badge.
4. Bend back the staked area of the Flange nut. I found that an old, 1/4" wide wood chisel worked well, by driving it into the gap , followed by radial hammering.
5. Replace roadwheel and lower corner back to the ground. Ensure that the handbrake is fully on and chock the wheel you have just lowered.
6. Using the 32mm or 1.25" socket, undo the Flange nut . It is useful to put on enough steering lock to allow you to keep the breaker bar as close as possible to the tyre, to avoid peeling the socket off the nut. Those with impact drivers will be glad they invested in that tool!
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Sounds like a failed/stuck-open pressure relief valve on the header tank cap. Many on this forum suggest always carrying a spare. "New" ones from less reputable sources have also been known to fail.
did you open the boot/engine cover to look for the source of steam?
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Hi all,
Got the dreaded news today that my TF 135 will not pass the emissions test for an mot pass after my mechanic has tried everything 😭
She needs engine work but what is needed isn't evident until it's opened up, he says it's burning oil that can be smelt. This scenerio was present last year but went through with ",time and effort!"
Obviously you need head gasket change for starters then who knows?
Anyone care to give me cost of rebuilding the engine? I'm tempted to buy another engine but you never know what that's going to throw up I may be buying rubbish for all I know.
Sadly, this is a "How long is a piece of string" Question. My advice would be:
1. Ask your trusted garage to do a compression test + any other tests they think may give an indication of where the fault lies.
2. Have you or they seen any evidence of high oil consumption? (A good K series uses minimal/zero oil)
3. Has Pscan or any other diagnostic software revealed any clues
4. Have you replaced the Cat? Aftermarket cats seem to cause MUCH more difficulty passing emmissions tests than the O.E.M. Catalyst.
If the engine IS the culprit. I suggest you talk to MGFnTF Bitz, who sell "good" secondhand engines. Make sure you give them your current engine number etc. to ensure that the replacement will work with your ECU & wiring harness. Their engine price will give a useful ceiling cost, to suggest to your garage as a maximum repair budget for repair and reassembly of YOUR engine, after they have removed the cylinder head. I would suggest that once the head is off and examined, they SHOULD be able to give a firm quote for repair & rebuild.
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