David Aiketgate wrote:

Airportable wrote:

That depends on which car Bill has; Mk1 f definitely, I’m unsure of Mk2 but not Pektron tfs.
M


David Aiketgate replied:-
The mk2 F still has the temp sensor north of the expansion tank. I believe the first TFs, with the square lucas fob, also retained that sensor. 

I can confirm that Early, Lucas FOB TFs also have this switch where you show it, and it does cause the engine-bay fan to come on once disconnected.  At least, it does on my 2002 TF.

In case you (or anyone else) is still in the market: The MGCC magazine Christmas edition has just appeared online.

Screen dumps of the relevant Cars for Sale section might be of interest. I do not think these pages are visible to non-members yet.

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This might be helpful:

I agree 100% with the "Overpriced" comment by TA22GT, especially in view of your mention of
"there was an advisory for front suspension arms corroded (but not weakened) so they'll need doing at some point"

These lower arms are notorious for collecting water & mud and therefore corrode. Either use this as a way to get the price down, or find a better deal!

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Kidcreation, assuming you have not yet paid any money as deposit or outright purchase, I would make the following observations:
1. Whilst that rust could be removed, treated & painted, it looks very much like the surrounding sills and probably other areas have already been re-sprayed. If so, rust has re-appeared and that makes me doubt that the panels were properly prepared before that (cosmetic??) re-spray. If I were considering that car, I would insist on taking a good look underneath, to see what other rust is visible. The front mounts of both the front & rear sub-frames have a reputation for rotting first. There is also a notorious mud-trap at the back of the front wheel arches. Water & muck drop down the wheel-arch liner, and are trapped between plastic & steel. Rot follows.
2. How much service history, invoices or (ideally) a photo history of work being done. Cambelt changes and a properly replaced head gasket are the two "must haves" in my mind, unless the car is cheap.

Back in March 2021, I found rust in the same rear sill area as you. Photos of the rust spots and the re-spray are attached. At least your paint colour will be easier to match than my Starlight Silver!

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As I said:
"by rapidly pressing the LOCK button on each fob, while it is near to the car."

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whenever you change the battery in the fob OR the 12Volt battery in the car, you must re-synchronise BOTH fobs, by rapidly pressing the LOCK button on each fob, while it is near to the car.
Hopefully, you left the car doors un-locked. If so, I suggest you do this re-synchronisation sitting in the car. It should work with the fob outside the car, as long as you are very close. I do this every spring after re-connecting the main battery, which I always disconnect when I take the car off the road for winter.

You should hear the locks activate after the third or forth rapid press. I THINK it is possible to recover the correct EKA for your car using PSCAN software with a suitable computer plugged-in to the data port. Hopefully, there is someone in Greece who can help?

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Notanumber wrote:

Very much reccommended if you dont have it as yet: Roger Parker's Everyday Modifications For Your MGF and TF

Despite the title there is a vast amount of general useful information in there


Yes I have both of Roger Parker's books and have found them very useful.
 

TA22GT wrote:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266960075744?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=UpGj-3oUS0O&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=7vIyORCuRHq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Hi...is this the same gentleman by any chance?
He does rears too. Very attractive prices if the fit is good. 

I am relying on my memory of 2 years ago, but I THINK that Ebay ad is the supplier I used.

As regards "if the fit is good", there is a fundamental problem with ANY adaptor bracket which locates on the two surfaces MG spot-faced to accept the heads of the M12 bolts, rather than the fully machined side of the same holes which the calliper carrier attaches to when in the standard, 240mm disc position.  I tried to explain this problem to the supplier when he blamed "inconsistent machining" for the difficulty I experienced.  my email text was:Thanks for the quick reply.  You mention "Inconsistency" in MG's machining, which is undeniably true BUT, to be fair to them, the Al Alloy adaptor is attached to (and effectively positioned by) the two surfaces MG spot-faced to accept the heads of the M12 bolts, NOT the reference face of the standard callipers.  I suspect the machining tolerance for THAT (reference) face is much tighter.  Inaccuracy/inconsistency of the spot-facing only effects the depth of penetration of the attachment bolts, which would only become a problem if it was wrong by a couple of mm.

The end result of this is that you MUST be prepared to carefully check that the alloy adaptor with the calliper carrier attached ends up with equal width spaces either side of the disc.  As the 280mm disc does NOT have any retaining bolts (as per the std 240mm discs) you need 4 bolts with the correct thread to suit the wheel studs.  It is a metric fine size IIRC.  These will allow you to bolt the disc on without the wheel, so that you can check you have the right washers between adaptor & Hub.  Hope that makes sense!!

You need to read the Word doc I sent to help limit confusion.