Your harsh suspension will most likely be because the hydra-gas spheres have probably lost all their nitrogen gas charge and have been pumped up with fluid to build up the ride height to compensate. Which bring us to another potential problem with doing a conversion on a MGF..... whereas a car with a conventional suspension system can have stiffer or softer springs easily made and installed to compensate for the inevitable differing weight and balance of the conversion, this may prove difficult with an MGF, as such a TF with it's conventional suspension would be a much more suitable candidate.
I totally agree with Cobber's observations above.
Congratulations on achieving the upgrades you have incorporated. A cheap TF with an engine with HGF maladies would be a good starting-point for your next iteration. You may recall that I visited a couple of years ago with a Silver TF.
I now drive an EV as well as that TF. I found the single-pedal style of driving tricky to get used to, and I had the same thought about brake lights! Now that I AM used to it, I find that it encourages a relaxed and energy-efficient, (= range increasing) driving style.
Good luck with the Land Rover 110!
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Hi Hoverbob, I am surprised that no one else has suggested finding a replacement K series 1.8 block (or complete VVC engine)
I appreciate that presumably you are from somewhere in NZ, given that you asked: "And if anyone knows of people in the Hamilton new Zealand area that can help please let me know!
but even there I suspect that a few MGFs and Rovers fitted with a 1.8 K series must have been either scrapped already, or sitting around unused & un-loved, giving a potential donor for a replacement engine.
You mentioned that there a re scored bores, a snapped engine bolt and (presumably) other horrors on your existing engine.
I would suggest trying to source a replacement "Short" engine, refurbish your existing VVC head, then fit that head to the short block. This would avoid incompatibility of your wiring loom and ECU with a later TF160 head. The block only has sensors for water and oil temperatures to worry about and you could probably swap the relevant parts from your existing (scrap?) block if your wiring loom does not match connectors on the replacement block. IIRC, the bottom end of K series 1.8 non VVC engines is the same as the VVC, though others on this site may know better. I am guessing that if NZ is not a viable source for secondhand K series engines, a trip to Australia, or arranging shipping of something suitable from a source there might be cheaper than sending a block from the U.K. I am sure Cobber or someone else in OZ could suggest suitable sources?
Whatever you decide to do, Good Luck!
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It works and tells the time to within 2 minutes every 24 hours, not bad for 100 years of age.
Should that not read ....2 minutes every 12 hours??
O.k. Nobody likes a smart Ar!e, but I could not resist!
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In the early days of my TF ownership, I used to suffer from a loud clunking rattle from the driver's door. When I remove the liner and rain excluding plastic, I found that the rear guide had either fallen off or was never installed. It was lying in the bottom of the door (see first photo below.) The part, after cleaning is in pic 2 and the blue plastic sheath which fits between the guide and the glass is in the last picture, mounted in the correct place before I replaced the cast guide block. I was surprised by how heavy that cast lump of (Mazak??) guide block was. I still have minor rattles from the door, but nothing like as bad as before replacing the heavy guide block.
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Fully agree with the above. It also occurs to me that if your F is grounding on your garage/drive floor, either the ground-clearance is desperately small, or your drive/garage floor or wherever it is grounding must be VERY uneven.Cobber wrote: The fact that there are so many bolts used to secure the plate tells be it must do something to stiffen the car, otherwise they'd just use a few clips of self tappers.
Even the ribs and folds pressed into the part will when in combination with all those bolts will add to the torsional rigidity of the car, they may even contribute to a reduction in NVH (Noise, Vibration & Harshness)
I used to have problems with grounding at a slope reversal where my drive meets the edge of the "main" road outside our house. Since selling the Kit car and buying the standard, (NOT "Sportspack" 1 or 2) TF135, I have never had any grounding problems, despite the appallingly bad state of Devon roads. Are you confident that the Satur suspension was installed and set-up correctly?
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