flat and polish - what's the trick ?
- Notanumber
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So what on earth is the story with this base coat and laquer stuff, particularly base coat and lacquer rattle cans ? Is it just me or is it the norm adequate coverage but always a really flat almost matte finish ?
I wasn't happy with the front wing i painted on the TF the other year in base and clearcoat. It's in colour but no great depth of shine so I thought I'd have a go at improving my technique. My daughter's old Nissan Micra was sitting around complete with a few dents in 2 panels whch i straightened out and filled.This was a handy thing to practice on so doing everything by the book i gave it several coats of primer with lots of rubbing down with progressively fine paper beteeen coats and then left to harden for a week..
I was then ready for the colour coat which covered evenly, surprisingly well really given the constraints of rattle cans. Once covered i took some 600 then 800 grade to it and the gave it another base coat to be sure.
The next day I went in with several coats of clear laquer. After a couple of days in the sun to let it harden I proceeded to give this a rub over with 1500, then 2000 and lastly 3000 grade wet and dry. It felt smoother but didnt look remotely shiny. I then went over it with some Farecla G3 compound with a polishing bonnet on a DA. I cleaned that off the repeated. . Lastly i went in with some Simoniz wax polish, polished and wiped that off, stood back and was immediately disappointed. It still looks matte compared to the surrounding paintwork.
Not that the looks on this old Micra really matter too much as its just waiting for my youngest daughter to pass her test and will be a sacrificial first car.
But, what they hell is the secret with these base coat and laquer ppaints as ive done everything by the book. Can anyone ever get a shiny finish with these apparently handy base and clear coat pairs of rattle cans or are they just always a load of crap.
2003 MG TF 135 sunstorm
1979 MGB GT
Previously:
2002 115 TF + 1998 118 MG F
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Regards Glyn.
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- Airportable
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Replied by Airportable on topic flat and polish - what's the trick ?
Posted 1 year 1 month ago #216230M
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Thank Goodness I was only painting the edges, to avoid removing the door cards for the scheduled car’s full spray (I had the doors dismantled for the Dynamat soundproofing and some other treats)
I was really puzzled, as Notanumber, getting that pitiful outcome after following the instructions letter by letter 🤷🏽♂️
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- Notanumber
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Replied by Notanumber on topic flat and polish - what's the trick ?
Posted 1 year 1 month ago #2162332003 MG TF 135 sunstorm
1979 MGB GT
Previously:
2002 115 TF + 1998 118 MG F
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- BruceTF135
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Replied by BruceTF135 on topic flat and polish - what's the trick ?
Posted 1 year 1 month ago #216237Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
G3 will barely polish 1500 grit.
I use Scholl S3 which will polish up 1500 grit then I really polish it with Scholl S40.
If using G3 I would polish with 2000 then 2500 grit.
You will be hard pushed to get 2000 to go thru the laquer but 1500 will do if overdone.
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The method was given to me paint supplier and confirmed online, the theory is that you will get a chemical bond for up to seven days between epoxy primer and base coat and the same applies to base coat and clear if applied within an hour or so. Although you are using rattle cans the same principles should apply,
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- Airportable
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Replied by Airportable on topic flat and polish - what's the trick ?
Posted 1 year 3 weeks ago #216272Make sure the surface is flat, chemically clean, no dust or insects. Shake the can, point it in the approximate direction of the object to be painted & press the button. Keep it moving! Lightly cover over; up, down, left, right.
If you have an infrared lamp set it up & walk away.
Return at regular & suitable instances & repeat until you’re happy. Let it harden for a day or so & stand back & admire the results.
The biggest problem with amateur painting is it’s usually done outdoors & in between showers; not everyone can build a tent in their garage & follow Len’s example.
I’m no more successful than the next person, I can play guitar really well until you give me one & I’m not even sure how to hold it.
M
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Len used 2000grit because he knew that G3 would not polish up from 1500 grit. No real shine.
There are other products with the right pad that will.
If the humidity is high it will blush so a heated garage does help.
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I was working at an industrial scale cake bakery, and there was a panel shop just over the back fence, the truck came to fill up the flour silo, this is done by pumping the flour though large diameter tubes with air.
The fill tube broke at the top of the silo, resulting in shit loads of flour being pumped into the air, no one noticed as no one was paying attention, so no one really knew how much flour was lost.........however a great deal of it was found in the panel shop, stuck to many cars in various stages of being painted! Those panel beaters were not happy campers!
It cost the bakery a metric shit ton of money to compensate the panel shop in order to repaint all those cars.
I managed to do a very temporary repair using ratchet tie down straps and duct tape to hold and seal the damaged pipe work, until it could be done properly, when my company pulled me out of that bakery due to them not paying their bill some 9 mths later, the silo filling pipework was still held together with ratchet straps and duct tape!
"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"
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- Notanumber
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Replied by Notanumber on topic flat and polish - what's the trick ?
Posted 1 year 3 weeks ago #2162782003 MG TF 135 sunstorm
1979 MGB GT
Previously:
2002 115 TF + 1998 118 MG F
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