Upgrading 15 inch brakes.

Thought I would do a summary on my journey upgrading the std 15 inch brakes with some thoughts and some very unscientific conclusions.
This thread is not about fitting different callipers but using what we have.

The easy route is changing the pads to Yellowstuff pads. An immediate improvement and they do not fade after some hard braking unlike std pads. 
Removing the Proportioning valve gave more braking to the rear and felt much better as the car sat under braking. A nice feel. I could not make it lock the back brakes first no matter what road surface I was on so for my purposes I deem it safe.

 
 

In all honesty this transformed the braking performance dramatically and I was prepared to leave them be.

I was saving up to replace the suspension to call my car complete but realised realistically doing that could wait until spring. The car handles superbly so it is just the ride I want to improve.
Well as fate would have it I found big brake kits coming up in my Ebay feeds and I took the plunge.
I bought the TTPerformance rear brake kit. TT had done it to improve rear brakes when the fronts were fitted with 304mm 4 pots.
Hence he did not do front kits. The kit looked superb and it really is.
I planned doing the fronts too so I fitted the rears with 280mm discs and the Yellowstuff pads. 
I did do a short road test. I could feel more braking at the rear but it still would not lock up but I would NOT advise upgrading just the rear with 240mm fronts for obvious reasons!
 
   

 

I got the front discs and calliper brackets from another supplier on Ebay.
The discs are of good quality and the brackets also fit. What may seem like a downer was two washers of different thicknesses to space the brackets so that the disc runs central. As it happens when you look at the original calliper frame and the brackets on the hub the mating face is only the size of the washer.
I used both washers to allow the discs to run central in the calipper and it was bang on. As far as mounting holes everything was perfect and the brackets are parallel to the discs.



The Forum is not allowing me to upload more pics! Nor is it sending a DM message that took an hour to write..twice!! I will try adding pics later as an edit.

I reckon that using Yellowstuff pads OR upgrading to bigger discs with std pads would give very similar results. 
I think most people would be very happy either route although one route is a bit cheaper. 
   
Having the Yellow pads already and then upgrading to bigger discs has finished my brake journey.

I road tested it today on some favourite mountain roads.

"How did it go Brian?"  😁😁😁😁😁

"How are the brakes Brian?" 😁😁😁😁😁

"Are you happy now Brian?"  😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁





 

So that's it them?   Definitely no more fiddling with the brakes?  Well done in getting it as far as you are content.  (for now?)
One thing I'm curious about is my Yellow Stuff pads came with rubber pads that fitted the pads as distinct to the shim thingies. 
 
You seem to have neither, far as I can see, any particular reason?  

You'll be after my Bilsteins next!

Let's answer the important question first..
Yes I am after your Bilsteins!!
I figured that it would be early spring before you change them and be ready for the road so hence my brakes got done.
Mine came with those sticky "anti rattle" stickers too but they were looking a bit scabby after being in and out so I removed them.
The weight saving was the equivalent of 10bhp.
Yes that's it for the brakes.
My car is a meat and potatoes car that I bought for the condition rather than spec. It still needs to be dynamically perfect and once your shocks are wrestled from your clenched grasp I should be good to go!
Hopefully...perhaps.

 

So, can I conclude that you have upgraded both ends to 280mm discs together with “yellow stuff pads”?
(and for your own purposes removed the balance valve).
And that the parts came from different sources not including Mike Satur?
 

I did reply to your post last night but once again the Forum threw a fit and didn't post it.
Your summation is correct.
Front and rear upgraded to 280mm using two different suppliers for calliper brackets and discs.
Both fit securely and the discs run through the centre of the calliper both front and rear.
The brakes are dramatically improved from standard.
There is no shake, shimmy or rattle and I am pleased with the results.
Just suspension left to do now! 

Some really good information here.
My 1st attempt at upgrading my brakes was to fit a servo brace and stainless hoses. 
I also fitted standard discs and pads from a well known supplier.
I was very happy with them and they were well balanced.
I then went down the path of fitting ap 4 pots and bigger wheels and I'm wishing that I had just upgraded the pads instead of mucking about with bigger calipers and wheels. 

Amazingly un-conventional set up. The rear should overtake the front under heavy braking, but you get excellent braking instead.

These cars are really special, and you a brave man, Brian 😊👏🏼👏🏼

Thanks! I appreciate your comments.
Everyone knows I have been endlessly plugging the Yellowstuff pads but for good reason and I am not an EBC fan from experiences long ago.
They work in our cars.
I can't put a percentage on it but they increase the stopping power tremendously and they don't fade.
Std pads for me had no bite and after a few enthusiastic corners they faded away very quickly.
The Yellows do not fade and are also good in traffic from cold with no scary moments.
I don't consider them a track pad just a good road pad.
It is an easy upgrade too.
The bigger discs are the icing on the cake. I just didn't want to buy 16in wheels, tyres and 4 pot callipers but these mods just work and the brakes just haul the car to a stop..like feeling your grip on the steering wheel tighten as you hold on as you slow down. It is very noticeable.

Thanks Pedro but certainly not brave!
The rear wouldn't lock up even when I just fitted 280mm rears first but certainly not advised!
With 280mm all round the front still locks up first even on gravel.
Looking at the master cylinder the front take off gets a bigger stroke than the rears because the pressure is being sent to the front first so it is naturally front biased.
Removing the PV has probably given it a 60/40 split..guessing ..instead of 70/30..guessing.
I am careful with brakes Pedro and if it were dodgy in any way I wouldn't be doing it!

No, I did not mean you were brave in that sense. Progressing slowly from a shy braking to a hard dry stop in a controlled environment takes the risk out of the equation. And you seem to know what you are doing driving a car.

I meant brave in the sense of going to all that expense and investing all that time in something that for most people, including me, was not going to work.

But it does 

Cheers Pedro!
You should have changed the word brave to Nutter! 😁
Increasing both front and rear to 280mm has kept the ratio the same.
As far as trying them out I live in a forest and have a mile and a half to drive before I come to a public road. If the rears don't lock on that surface they won't on tarmac..dry or wet ...so I have an idea how things are fairly soon.
Besides I have been fitting bigger brakes from all sorts of cars to little Toyota's for a long time and I'm still here 😁

Thanks for the update. Any chance you give us all a clue as to where you sourced the rears from in particular, an "item number" perhaps? Ideally the front too but if not that there is at one we probably all know of in Stoke On Trent.