Locked driver’s door

The system is a motor & gear train. It is dependant on the train to be synchronised for the mechanism to operate correctly (self evident) & like most inquisitive members who have these problems, I’ve taken one to pieces.
I’m only aware of one successful & long lasting repair, it wasn’t mine.
A while back a member who is no longer active stated & I paraphrase, “I’ve taken my lock to pieces & no matter how hard I’ve tried I can’t do a proper repair. I’ve done this so you don’t need to waste your time, buy a replacement “.
I would underscore this sentiment!
M

Door lock Repair    👈 CLICK CLICK

Many moons ago, Clive dismantled and repaired a door lock. His how to is very instructive... 

L/H locks would be a mirror image of a R/H lock so whatever is asymmetrical about one will be opposite on the other. I wouldn't mind fitting a L/H lock to my car.
It's just temping fate............One day, I can see the battery being flat and the drivers door lock choosing that moment to shit itself, of course I'll need to get in desperately and wont be able to because the imbiciles only put a lock on one side!
Of course one I have locks on both sides, providing me with an easy solution, then fate just won't bother and this problem will never occur, as I'd taken all the fun out of it!

I could be wrong but I do seem to recall something about some of the low spec  (poverty pack) 1.6 litre cars  had locks on both sides as they didn't have central locking.

David Aiketgate wrote:

Door lock Repair

Many moons ago, Clive dismantled and repaired a door lock. His how to is very instructive... 

Don’t suppose you know where that how to is?  I looked but can’t find it. 
 

Click on the highlighted blue link in David's post.
It looks like a good read.

Cobber wrote:

…
I could be wrong but I do seem to recall something about some of the low spec  (poverty pack) 1.6 litre cars  had locks on both sides as they didn't have central locking.

In my quest to find a replacement lock, I’ve seen an advert for a non central locking actuator for the very early cars, at  an astronomical price. 
It appears that soon we’ll only be able to get LHD locks in the UK and will have to drill the extra key hole. 
 

R40MGF wrote:

Hopefully this photo should help give you a better idea of what you need to do.  

this is in the unlocked position. 
 

This is in the locked position. 

I've just had a bit of an Eureka moment!
 Looking back at R40MGF’s excellent and very helpful photos, while trying to depress the lock tab, I found that it wouldn’t depress fully (even using a screwdriver or similar) if the battery was disconnected or not fully charged. 
So I’d suggest to anyone experiencing similar issues, make sure the battery is connected and in tip top condition before you give up totally on your nicely lubricated lock not moving correctly. 

 

It would be interesting to see if the same lock mechanisms were used on any other Rover cars

I have had good experience purchasing second hand parts from the MGF Centre in Wolverhampton (although I was able to source a new door locking mechanism from Rimmer Bros). They might have a supply of RHD door lock mechanisms.

Corbridge lad on eBay has both LHS & RHS locks, he gets some useful stuff from time to time & although he can’t be classed as cheap, I recon he’s Ok
I’ve met him a few times & found him to a personable individual. The items I have had were good & clean, I don’t live too far away from him, so carriage isn’t a problem, plus if I go the long way round I can have a run up the Ribble valley, returning via the Trough of Bowland.
M

Ahhh...Trough of Bowland...memories of my night rallying days...that and Clapham Station...flat in fifth until you chickened out.

Good to have these contacts.

Today I have read up a bit more on this topic and am puzzled as to how the situation is to be overcome if "superlocking" has taken place.
So here is my question
Without access to the door when it is open it is not possible to remove the screws that hold the lock to the door case. Does this mean that once the door card is destroyed to get access to the lock that you have to basically dismantle the lock in-situ such that you can release the interlock that creates the "superlock"?
I ask because as I understand it once "superlock" is activated an interlock is deployed within the lock case that prevents any of the other rod mechanisms from having any effect ~ simply put they are disabled. Or is there something more obvious that I'm overlooking.

Within the case there are three microswitches, 1 to sense if the door is closed/open, 1 to sense if the system is locked or unlocked, and 1 to sense if the key has been used to lock/unlock the door. And the ECU determines whether to power the standard lock or superlock (and which way to operate the motor).
So again if the fob is not having any effect on unlocking the door and superlock has been deployed I cant see any other way of opening the door other than dismantling the lock in situ. Am I wrong? If so please explain.

My only other thought would be to turn ignition on (possibly start the engine) and disconnect the accelerometer that senses that you have run into the big tree. Then see what happens. Or could it be a weak earth? If so where?