Yes, it is an 80th anniversary car and I have the same interior.
The tan dash definitely does not reflect light at all.
The car looks good from the photos but you will need to have a closer look at the wheel wells and underside for corrosion.
The color matched hardtop is a nice to have. Some people do not care for them but personally I find it really transforms the car in the winter. The liner, if original, is almost certainly sagging but is an easy fix.
Overall the car looks to be well kept and original.
The lighter color convertible top shows dirt and stains much more than a darker car.
The color is an aquamarine that looks either green or blue depending on the light.
The faded badges front and rear are very typical for the MG TF. The wind blocker is a nice little extra,
Personally, I am not a huge fan of the alcantra seats and changed mine out for leather. I did however save the original seats as they are specific to this model.
The carpet is pulling away from the door openings - this is very normal and can be easily retified by putting some dense foam padding under the footwell carpet.
If you plan on checking it out in person please advise and we can give you a few pointers of things to check.
Personally, it was the color scheme of this particular model that attracted me to the car.
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I understand your choice (LOL). Color combinations are very subjective and can make a huge difference in personal appeal. The nice thing about these cars is that they came in a wide assortment of color combinations. The choice of MGF vs MG TF is also personal. MGFs were somewhat better built but lack some of the technical improvements of the MGFs. Trophy models are probably the best compromise but they did not come in the color combinations you want. Keep in mind there were Mk1 and Mk2 MGFs if that is what you want. The Abingdon and 75th anniversary special editions came in the color combinations that you like (although I think the shade of green might be a bit darker).
Rebuilt hydragas spheres for MGFs are available, they are just expensive, although it is probably not that much worse than any other suspension refurbishment.
Take your time in finding the right car. The issues are overblown. This site has invaluable 'how to guides' that will explain how to do it yourself. A lot of the smaller stuff is easy to do. These cars are well understood by now, so most 'issues' are easy to identify and prevent. They are sort of modern and vintage at the same time. If you look after them, they are quite reliable. Most parts are easy to find (except a few) and inexpensive. There is a lot of great advice on this site on how to improve the original design as well (in terms of handling, comfort, reliability etc.).
I would strongly recommend asking here when inspecting any potential car, You will get a lot of experienced advice and useful pointers! Just be sure to share photos as it is easier to understand.
I would also recommend the Restoration Guide by Roger Parker. It is a great resource. The Buyer Guide book by comparison is useless.
Noce Lotus BTW. the 2+2 is one of my favorite models!
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As other have already stated, the reason the motor fails is due to water ingress. Drilling a small hole at the bottom can help drain the water that is trapped inside. The noise from the motor is likely from dirt and corrosion and lack of lubrication. I needs to be removes, cleaned and lubricated. After that, it might still be no good. This is risk of second hand motors. Lots of posts with photos on this topic. Its a pretty common problem for cars that are parked outside regularly.
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If you have concerns about the superlock, you can just cut the wire to disable it permanently. There are posts on how to do this. It seems very simple if you want to do that. I don't think it adds much in terms of security and the low value of these cars means they are not that likely to be stolen.
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I have had positive experience purchasing second hand parts from the MGF Centre in Wolverhampton (although I was able to source a new door locking mechanism from Rimmer Bros). They might have a supply of RHD door lock mechanisms.
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The locks tend to give a bit a warning before they go. They make a sort of 'whirring' sound prior to the 'machine gun'. Basically the inner plastic mechanism eventually fails and is not repairable. Once you start to hear any sounds, it is best to lock only using the key (on my car the superlock and lock occur at the same time, that is how it was programmed) and plan on replacement ASAP. This is what happened to me earlier this year. Of course, as others have said, it is best to make sure the lock is lubricated regularly to help ensure longevity. Replacement is fairly straightforward as long as you can open the door!
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You could even consider just painting the underneath portion of the sill (only). This would not be visible but it would still reduce noise. I find the sills make quite a bit of noise when dirt is kicked up from the font wheels and resonates when it hits the underside of the front sills. That said, I guess one could also opt for front mud flaps for the same effect.
There are also internal frame sprays that might have the same effect from the inside. Not sure, never tried this. There are access holes for spraying into the front sills in the front wheel wells behind the plastic wheel guard. For example:
Eastwood Internal Frame Anti-Rust Coating, 14 oz. Spray
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Another area to consider for sound deadening is the back of the panels surrounding the side air intakes. I am not sure of it is different for the MGF, but on a MG TF if you tap on the panel surrounding the air intake grille is sounds hollow and terrible. There is basically one large thin metal cosmetic panel that runs from the rear of the car all the way to the front of the the sill area. The area around the vent opening has very little structural support and will rattle you tap gently on it. Compare this panel with your recently sound deadened door panels and you will observe quite a difference!
If you remove the vent cover (easy to do - see other posts for this) and remove the black plastic air tube, you can access a fair amount of the back side of the metal panel (well not so much in the forward sill area unless you have very thin arms and small hands). Clean it first then apply sound deadening material as far as your arm can reach is all areas. The difference will be quite remarkable.
Clean out your 4 sill drain holes while you are at it.
You can also access the rear area of the panel via small openings in the boot area on the sides behind the carpet.
The front sill area cannot be accessed (for sound deadening).
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