SRS light on

SRS light off and car through the MOT.
Fitted a new rotary coupling last week and this fixed the problem, refitted the original dcu to be sure it was just the one fault.
It was strange that when i fitted the second hand dcu the light went out and remained out until the next day.
The pscan was good, it put me in the right area, but i still dont know how to pinpoint it down to one item, ie, how to test the dcu or the rotary coupling. So it was still a bit of guess at the end.
These were the two favourites from the start but expensive if you buy both new and only need one.
Many thanks again to Roverlike and Airportable also Cobber at the end.
May sound sad but i quite enjoyed the saga and using the pscan diagnostic equipment.
Regards
Pete.

Excellent excellent excellent, a great outcome & lessons learned all around. I bet your knowledge of the car is much greater now than before, obviously excluding the SRS system, of which you are now an expert, ready to jump into action to wrap a metaphorical cooling towel around the head of the next member vexed by a faulty system.
M

PBR73 wrote:

SRS light off and car through the MOT.
Fitted a new rotary coupling last week and this fixed the problem, refitted the original dcu to be sure it was just the one fault.
It was strange that when i fitted the second hand dcu the light went out and remained out until the next day.
The pscan was good, it put me in the right area, but i still dont know how to pinpoint it down to one item, ie, how to test the dcu or the rotary coupling. So it was still a bit of guess at the end.
These were the two favourites from the start but expensive if you buy both new and only need one.
Many thanks again to Roverlike and Airportable also Cobber at the end.
May sound sad but i quite enjoyed the saga and using the pscan diagnostic equipment.
Regards
Pete.

Thank you very much for the information about problem resolution!! This is the most important part of this thread for others to know how this problem might be solved.

I am so glad that you resolved this problem! Excellent!!

 

Evening Gents.

I try to keep up to date with this forum which is much better than anything else for our cars.
Since Len has solved his SRS light problem, my car decided it was my turn this evening.

Car
- Apr 2005 TF (single airbag)
- SCU refurbished by Technozen Paul within the past 9 months
Problem - SRS light stays on

Questions
- is the rotary coupler the only cause; should I consider another failure mechanism
- is there a detailed guide to changing the rotary coupler (I am reasonably OK with cars - might change a timing belt if I was pushed)
- is buying new from XPart close to a guarantee of parts -  Genuine MG Rover Squib Steering Column Rotary Coupler MGF TF MINI - YRC100300 | eBay UK

Genuinely appreciate advice.

Hi, I take it that you've checked the connectors under the seats because they can play up become loose.
Glyn.

Thanks Glyn, Err.... actually, no.
I will do.

Is it recommended to disconnect the battery and wait for 20 minutes before doing even this?

I will do that and report back (probably) tomorrow.

Additionally, the horn works.

Dave

Do look at the seat connector by all means, however considering the year of manufacturer it should be a yellow/white one. Earlier offerings were red & they were gash.
I think you lift the white “latch” to disconnect. Don’t just grab & tug, if I were at home I would check against my spares to confirm.
The clock spring has done a lot of work by now & even if it isn’t the cause, I would change it as preventative maintenance.
M

Yes, you should disconnect the car battery and wait 20 to 30 minutes before starting to work on SRS connectors.

Thanks AP and Roverlike. This will have to wait for the weekend to take off the battery lead. Also come down with a spring flu today.

Oddly, today, the light extinguished on start-up. The temperature was cool today in NW London. I might be faced with an expansion related fault.

I have removed the seats about 18 months ago to dry out the carpet as the snorkel seal had failed when I bought it.
I vaguely remember that there is some sort of connector latch so I will watch out for that.

Half-term is in a week or so and that may be the time to replace the rotary coupler.
Any advice on buying new from X-Part? And is YRC100300 the correct part?

Thanks again,
Dave

Have a look around you might find a better price. There were a number swashing about a while ago at attractive prices.
I should have bought one then, there may still be odd pockets of better value.
M

I’ve just been following up on this to check the part number & found an anomaly. I said there was a glut of these on the market recently & at attractive prices. These claim to be compatible with our cars & some are as low as £17-00.
YRC100300 is the correct part number, these command the higher price, even used. The cheap replacements are YRC100410; are these compatible?
As I’m working on my phone, I can’t resolve the picture in enough detail. Would someone with a larger monitor have a look & give your opinion.
These are on eBay.
M

I've just had a look and the only difference i can see is the YRC100300 has MG stamped on it, the numbers printed on it and plugs are the same