Regarding how would an insurance assessor establish if the ECU had been re mapped.
How would you do it?
My expectation would be that they would plug in a tool such as pscan and find out. Alternatively send the ECU to a company such as K maps and ask them to interrogate it and establish if it was standard or not. At the point of purchasing insurance from a distance of course if it is not declared they will not know.
An insurance company has share holders. The assessor or in the case of an incident the loss adjuster or similar should be invited to investigate and see if his company is liable to pay out on the claim.
Is that risk of not declaring the modification worth it?
Why did you want the mod? Presumably to improve performance. Why do we seek more performance? At some point it has consequences for risk.
Greater risk equals higher premiums.
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Absolutely!
I too found that even if the mods were simply fitting options available at the time of order, or parts from a previous model year such as wheels.
During re insuring it becomes immediately necessary to be transferred to a broker!
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So the alarm goes off whilst loading the shopping in so where is the problem? Itmakrs a noise that no one bothers about these days.
You are in the car waiting for your wife to return with something she has just collected. Rather than get out with the key just use the phone to open the boot (you can turn the ignition on first to prevent the alarm sounding).
Finally, you dropped the keys in the boot then shut it, but you still have the phone in your pocket. Now you can open the boot.
Surely it is all positive.
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Why not try a “Bluetooth” operated relay switch?
See eBay item number:324634081959., if not this one there must be a similar possibility.
Prrhaps eBay item number:264936220145
No keys, just your phone perhaps?
Certainly there appears to be a suitable APP for apple products that should operate a relay.
iPhone might be a bit more of a problem.
So who doesn’t have their phone with them?
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Good to hear the tank is back in. However, it is a bit concerning that the tank reacts to fuel by expanding.
Is that as a consequence of lead in the petrol or the introduction of ethanol, or the gasoline itself (or other additives).
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Can I clarify something please?
Under normal circumstances with everything working as it should and turning the ignition on the fuel pump can be heard to run then stop.
Is that because the ECU stops it from pumping or is there an internal pressure switch in the pump that temporarily switches the pump off?
If the latter and connecting 12 volts to the pump then that pressure would need to collapse back through the pump before any further 12 volt supply would have any consequence.
Secondly if you have changed parts associated with the ECU dont these need to be programmed to match other components in the car as illustrated in one of the other topics and posted by “pscan”?
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Why do you need to get under the car to bleed the system?
The 6mm bleed on the water rail is accessible after removing the engine bay cover.
The rad and heater bleed points are from the front bonnet.
If you are not disturbing the hose on the engine other than at the tank why do you need to get underneath?
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It would seem that I have not described the issue properly.
One or more products in a specific formulation of Antifreeze seems to contain a particular compound that is considered as a plasticiser. I’m told that the specific compound is not present in many antifreeze/corrosion inhibitors including OAT, and that there are many producers of those products that are safe to use with silicone hoses.
As stated I’m awaiting a response from one supplier/producer to confirm that the suggested product is acceptable/safe to use (I’m as sure as I can be that it is).
What I need to know is if anyone has purchased hoses from the Chinese source identified (AliExpress) and if so with what success.
Can anyone help with that please?
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I am unable to comment on the fitting arrangement. I do not have detailed knowledge of upgrades changes etc in hose fitting configurations. As far as I am aware there was "pre PRT" and "post PRT". More than that I cant comment.
Similarly I can't comment on the materials of construction variation between models i.e. who built what where and when in the factory. Rover/China etc.
The previous response was around the use of silicone hoses and compatibility with various types of Antifreeze.
From my perspective I will seek out an antifreeze from a supplier such as Comma in future (there are others obviously) and I have no financial or technical association with Comma or any other for that matter.
There appears to be more than one type of OAT (OAT, HOAT etc) and I'm not about to get involved in that discussion on here. I am not a materials expert.
Have a look at Comma or Valvoline websites to be totally confused!
Eg Comma G30, G40, G48 in various options such as extreme etc. You need the data sheets to see what is what.
Alternatively stick with standard hoses and plug in your VRN to the search features on various manufacturers websites.
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That indeed is a suggestion based on information from one U.K. retailer. They state that a specific compound in the particular OAT is detrimental to Silicone rubber hoses.
In all probability we will never know what is included in antifreeze unless a specific question is asked of the supplier who will in turn need to ask the blender/producer.
At present it is my understanding based on a very recent phone call to x-part that the stuff I have from them on my shelf contains the undesirable compound.
But I believe Comma produce a product that is compatible. I have lodged an email request with them for confirmation. I fully expect that a phone call follow up will be required.
I would need to check to be sure but I think their ok product is G30.
Clearly if they are making more than one OAT a it is for a reason.
There will be other suppliers producing acceptable OAT products the challenge is finding the right information.
Suppliers tend to take the view that you have a standard car and that if you select a product from their list for your car it will be ok. That does not mean it is ok if you change the MOC eg to silicone hoses. It is all part of “change control”.
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An interesting collection of debris cleaned from the tank.
How did it get there? Who knows!
It is known that if certain fuel additives are not added in the correct way then precipitation can occur. By that I mean you have to add “X” to the fuel storage tank first before adding the basic petrol (in the refinery blending tanks), similarly you must add “Y” to the basic fuel in the storage tank for the same reasons.
Heaven knows what happens to fuel from different suppliers (at the pumps) if it is mixed with that from another refinery, or for that matter what happens if aftermarket additives are added.
There are many “rubber” hoses involved in conveying fuel from refinery into your car. So it is not too surprising to think that some “rubbery gloop” came out but a bit alarming never the less. What happens at garage forecourt and storage tank maintenance is another obvious place for foreign matter to enter the system.
It just shows the need for a filter in the car before it blocks the injectors!
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Am I reading the above correctly that you can’t just swap out the ECU if you think it might be defective and that something else needs to changed at the same time?
If something else has to be changed at the same time can someone indicate what that might be and why please?
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Whilst searching for coolant hose kits I have come across this set. Has anyone had experience with hoses from this source please?
Quality can be a difficult thing to assess just looking a images. But when you look at the price from other potential suppliers advertising in various places this set via AliExpress is soo much cheaper. Comments please. Whilst this source might be a total disaster waiting to happen it might also be the same source used by companies advertising here in the UK.
Silicone Coolant Hose Kits For MG TF / F PRT 1.8L 18N4S1 2008 Model - AliExpress 34
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