Not sure which way this thread is heading but with regards to coolant alarms I fitted the version produced by Bruce of these pages that I purchased off eBay .
To try it out after bonding the sensor to the tank I powered it from the boot light supply. A number of runs out “up hill and down dale” gave confidence and I eventually wired it as suggested in the instructions with the audible alarm fitted behind the seat under the carpet. My hearing is not the best but that alarm is good enough to not be missed.
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If these engines were used in other vehicles did those other vehicles have the similar head gasket failure propensity?
A Google on this suggests there were other factors such as who produced the cylinder liners and possibly who built the engine. Lotus is mentioned but did they just take the engine for their purposes or did they modify it with regards to head gasket etc?
Anyone have “history” on this, and if so what is now the accepted wisdom should a new gasket be required?
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Can anyone confirm is the 6 spoke wheel in silver sparkle posted just before the last one from Len is a 16” wheel and if so which model and model year did that come from. The one I am referring to seems to be added or amended by David following a post by Judith’s Handyman if that makes sense.
i need to find out details for those wheels for insurance purposes. I think they might be from a 2002 model year and if they were an option in a December 2002 for a 135 TF. I think those fitted to my car may not be original and therefore a modification.
can anyone help please?
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I’m no expert on this topic and my hands are neither small nor huge.
I renewed the door handle which included swapping the lock barrel.
I struggled to achieve all that whilst others on here renewed the electronicall part of the system in a fraction of the time I spent doing it.
i tried fitting the electronic parts and then the barrel and failed miserably.
To resolve that I removed the electronic parts (again) to give space. Then I fitted the lock barrel and it’s retaining clip.
Re fitting the electronic bit afterwards was easy if a set sequence was adopted.
i would have to search my records to see if I can find that sequence if necessary.
yes the window was down I think although I think I also raised it at one point.
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When researching “knock” on line it became apparent that two flame fronts reaching each other was one of the potential sources of knock. So I’m surprised that two sparks is a good idea?
How is that controlled to avoid knock?
I can potentially see that two sparks at the same time aiming to create a larger uniform spark would seem beneficial.
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Surely hazards need to work when all else fails. That is what they are for when stopped at the roadside and broken down.
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Good to hear that all seems to work and making a difference. Obviously the fact that there were extra components available offered opportunities.
Assuming (always dangerous) that the bespoke stiffener continues to work satisfactorily do you think a “off the shelf” rigging turnbuckle would provide the necessary adjustment to get the lengths right and be a simple alternative?
Im not sure that the rose joints add a necessary advantage other than the ability to get the angles right during assembly.
The rigging screw might offer a cheaper ready made alternative.
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Thanks all for the detail relating to the clutch slave brace, very interesting it does open up possible opportunities. Not sure why you felt it was necessary to use fine threads unless you felt it was unpredictable to lock the arrangement without it slipping.
Back to the theory though..
As OEM the line of force will be following the slave rod. Without watching it deflect I can’t see what bends and how. But with the device fitted as shown in the drawings the resisting force is not in line with the axis of the slave push rod.. Any resisting force might tend to bend the slave rod I would have thought.
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So, am I reading this right?
you have constructed a very sensitive means of connecting the gear change cables to the selector rod using a standard bell crank,
AND braced the clutch slave cylinder to the bellhousing using the “spare” rose joints and some form of bracket that stiffens the existing support?
if so I’m not following exactly how you did that and it would be helpful to have some sketch details of that arrangement please.
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Understand the caution and the concern about blocks etc.
The blocks I used were good quality blocks not just the low density stuff that break easily.
With the car on its wheels (chocked) at the front on the blocks it was "going nowhere fast". The back was on axle stands on the blocks to get the height/clearance underneath. With the axle stands at "less than full height" they were more stable on their base triangle than on one block and fully extended etc.
If I remember correctly I think I also had bottle jacks (screw type not hydraulic) under the acknowledged lifting points or under some other structurally sound place at the back "just in case" ~ can't remember where now.
No intention of wearing the car or "pulling the trigger!"
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I had this problem when I attempted (and failed) to renew the cam belt. Basically I went to Jewsons and bought as many 4" thick concrete blocks as I could fit in the back of the estate car. Then "bit by bit" jacked it up and onto the blocks. I am fairly sure that the last lift at the back needed the small trolly jack I have balanced on one of those blocks. The front end went up a bit at a time using the same idea but using the standard jacking point. The back end I used the sub frame to fit the jack to rather than the standard point . can't remember why ~ possibly access around the car.
Yes, it was tight but lying on my back I could get underneath ~ just.
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Grief! That is striving for perfection.
Did you ever drive a Hillman Imp or equivalent variant? If you did you would be familiar with the vague feeling of "select a gear any gear so long as it is a forward one and not reverse".
If someone comes up with a means to prevent inadvertent selection of reverse whilst travelling at speed in a forward direction I'm interested!
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Surely one revolution of the rose joint would only reposition the gear lever by an amount equivalent to the relevant mechanical advantage that the gear lever assembly offers . I’m expecting the “gate” to be defined by the movement of selector rods and their relevant movement. The gear lever might tilt more forward/back or left/right respectively. As I see it the only issue might be if the lever mechanism struck the tunnel somewhere etc.
So I’m a bit puzzled why that one revolution can make such a difference. Any one explain that please?
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