Did they have to lift the roof off to get it in? Maybe it’s like Cobber’s fuel tank: they’ll have to let it ventilate before they can get it out through the doors?
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And while you’re at it, what about fitting a Bruce low-level-coolant sensor?
https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/9-mgf-tf-pitstop/99262-unashamed-thumbs-up-for-bruce-tf135-low-water-alarm-kit?start=12#209663
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I found this on the Internet:
”The Rover MEMS energises the fuel pump for a few seconds when the key is turned to ignition. It then waits for activity on the crank sensor showing the engine being turned over before it energises the pump again.”
it comes frim someone calling himself Sprocket; constantly, you’ll want to be circumspect as to how much weight you want to give it!!!
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I’ll be the first to agree with you
I fitted one to a Rover 100 without any difficulties, modifying the buzzer element to suit, with Bruce’s blessing.
https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/3-welcome-introductions-please/99197-hi-i-just-bought-an-mg-tf-from-2003-and-need-some-advice?start=12#209305
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Thanks, yes, you’re dead right about the effects of corrosion on circuit resistance (and the weird symptoms that can result); having once lived near the sea, I recall only too well how corrosion can affect circuits as every electrical connection soon turned green.
I stress I know nothing about you lovely cars, but if your MG cars are like my ugly Rover 100 (MEMS 1.6 version), the coolant sensor would have a negative temperature coefficient (NTC), so when cold it has a high resistance (eg 6k), but at 100C the resistance is only around 100 Ohms, and because Pedro’s ECU thinks his engine is hot even when it’s stone cold, his circuit would be indicating a low resistance. But I stress I know nothing about your cars or whether or not the coolant sensor has an NTC characteristic.
Going back to your observations about high resistance reminded me of how the sea-air corrosion created a high resistance in the high-current starter circuit. The braided earth bonding cable between the block and the body glowed and fizzled when the key was turned to the start position but nothing else happened. The corrosion caused a high resistance, so the cable behaved like an electric heater, before crumbling into brown copper oxide powder. But that was a very small price to pay for the privilege of living by the Moray Firth.
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Well done, Pedro; that’s excellent news. Thanks for taking the trouble to report back. I, for one, was very keen to know how your test was going.
if you have a thermometer and a digital voltmeter to measure resistance, and you are interested in looking at why your car behaved as it did, you could connect 2 wires to the new sensor and then boil some water and drop it in and then measure the resistance as it cools down, say, every 10 degrees. Then swap over the new sensor for the old one and do the same with the old sensor, or, even quicker, put the old one in the freezer for 10 minutes. My guess is that you will see the resistance of the old sensor fixed at the same value, one that corresponds to very hot on the new one.
Thanks again for the feedback.
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