Sound deadening on the cheap!

When you do the floor pans you will probably find them in good condition, but if you find any rust bubbles then I would recommend rubbing them down and treating with kurust or something similar before attaching the sound proofing. 

Thanks!
The car is amazingly rust free, in fact I can't believe how lucky I am.
I have BA Phosphate 80 for anything I find and will paint on top of that.
So I take it that under the carpets and underlay the floor is bare metal?
If so anything I put down must help.

I didn't find bare metal..it did have a dusting of paint but not much more than that. 

Thanks for your input..when I said bare metal I meant no deadening..I was hoping they would have painted it! 😁

Managed to get thru the snow on the forest track and on to black tarmac.
The difference in ride and sound is staggering.
I haven't done the floor pan yet and  under the dash where the carpet ends but I am sure it is going to make even more of a difference. Hopefully tomorrow.
This is a job worth doing, it's not imagination.

 

Nice rust free floorpan..but what were they thinking...yes I know...cost.

 

Drivers side done and all back together.
This will ride like a Maybach when it's finished.
Passenger side tomorrow...rain and light stopped play.
Never stopped Yorkshire cricketers though..we were tuf.

 
Passenger floorpan was as clean as the drivers side and free of any sound deadening.
The car is completed as far as this work is concerned.
The difference it has made to the car is staggering. I do not exaggerate.
I bought a pair of tweeters after learning on here that the car was alteady wired for them.
I think I was the first person to remove the door cards as everything looked original. It was then I noticed the lack of sound deadening and the two crash bars against the doorskin. It set me off on this journey.
Total cost for 4 rolls was £66. It has lifted the car in to another league.

Conclusion: 
1.The doors are the biggest vibration source. Doing those first and the effect it had on the car spurred me on to do more.
2. The floorpan is next as it is a huge area that is inside the cabin. It has cut down on road noise and it just feels like a better quality of ride as suspension bumps aren't transmitted inside the cabin as much as before.
3. Behind the seats. Covering the tank panel made a difference. Not as big as the first two.
4. The engine cover. It is already covered by the "dead dog" insulation but it did help.
5.Under the bonnet. Not sure if it made any difference. I figured anything in front of the ears must help but can't quantify really.

There was a secondary benefit for me. I have only had the car 2 months and I am getting to know it. Removing the seats, carpet etc. allowed me to see the condition of the car and how it is built. I am definitely the first person to remove the seats and carpet as there was not a mark on any of the fasteners. I now know how the boot/throttle cables are run and the loom too.
I like the car. It will be my last classic build and I will get it how I want it when funds allow but I can't help thinking that anything I do will just make it better...rather than modding it and still having a rattling car!
I encourage others to try it. The car has a very capable chassis and now it's a quiet and enjoyable chassis too.

A great report, thanks for your coverage & running commentary
Why I experimented originally is lost in the fog of memory or lack of it, other than to say having evicted the dead dog & before the reconstituted foam, I tripped over a half finished roll of the stuff, left after spending a jolly few hours trying to stop a drip from the extension.
Inside the doors got a do due to the cards being off, it never occurred to me to file a report of my findings, so thank you for taking up the batten & running with it.
M

@Airportable

Thanks...I appreciate your comment.

It was actually your "by the way" comment in another thread that triggered what to use.
I too had used some on a flat roof and applied bitumen over the top. 
So when I saw the inside of the doors it drifted back and prodded the grey matter.

The most important thing is it truly improves the car as you know from doing your doors.

 

BTW..each roll weighs 2kg...so 8kg's or 20lbs in old money. 

I agree with this assessment but would add that it is worth to do the boot, including the floor and lid. The most noticeable difference will be when you close the boot lid! You can also somewhat access the inside of the rear quarter panels and put a piece in there (similar to doing the inside of the doors but even tighter). 

While I have not done it, I wonder if it makes sense to put a piece inside the front fenders (after having removed the plastic fender covers).