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Sounds good. In that case, warm up the car in your garage, pumping the accelerator as required for the first minute or 2, get it warm so it idles perfectly, then do a snap throttle test - dip the accelerator quickly and let go quickly (no more than one second in total) and check how the engine responds. You will dip it quick enough not to rev the hell out of it, that’s not the aim. The aim is to check the engine responds instantly and without hesitation (deviation or repetition 😀). It shouldn’t really get over 2000 rpm.
And if it performs exactly as normal, back onto the drive and check it pulls forwards, and then with that confidence take it round the block. And if it still performs perfectly, I think you can confidently go and order a new coolant temperature sensor. But if you do have a separate temp sensor for the dashboard (which probably only has a single wire), make sure you order the correct 2-wire sensor that goes to the ECU.
But if it doesn’t work as I’ve described, and it still plays up even when warm/hot, please come back and expand on it.
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Thanks for the fast answer 😊
I don’t have pscan (yet) and you were right about the accelerating. I have not tried to keep it going on the road as I am afraid of having to be towed to the workshop, but I can do it next Friday without leaving my place.
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When you say unless you accelerate vigorously, am I correct in thinking you mean pump the pedal rapidly up and down to keep it going?
And, if you do that enough, can you get the engine to run better as it warms up, and, if so, once it has warmed up, does it run perfectly well?
If that is the case, I would be suspecting a faulty coolant temperature sensor telling the ECU the engine is hot when it’s stone cold). (The temp sensor that speaks to the ECU, not the one that feeds the dashboard, if you have a separate one.)
Do you have any diagnostic equipment, such as PSCAN, or diagnostic software, that could tell you what temperature the ECU thinks the coolant is at?
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Hello all
Early 2003 TF 135
Starts great everytime, but after 5-6 seconds stalls if I don’t accelerate vigorously. In that case, dies out like being out of petrol. Haven’t tried to drive it out of my garage (I don’t dare), but it seems to be getting worse.
As the car is 21 years old and it’s a keeper, I had already planned to change the fuel pump. In fact I have already purchased one (and the FPR) from Mike Satur.
Any suggestions??
Thanks so much,
Pedro
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The set I bought had twin drillings; on on our PCD & a second at 100mm PCD, this gives them a wider appeal. However they appealed to me & I’m quite pleased.
M
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Our cars odd stud PCD (pitch circle diameter) can work against us, but also for us too!
There aren't very many wheels out there on the second hand market that will fit our cars...............but as those that do fit are worthless to pretty well any one but ourselves will limit their market appeal too!
About the only other modern cars that use the same PCD are the Triumph TR7/TR8, the early Lotus Elise and maybe the odd kit car. The TR7 and TR8 came out with pissy little 13" wheels, so our wheels with their larger diameter are sought out to fit them, other than that no one else is really going to be interested in our wheels
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Try David at Church Square Autos in Shepperton 07836 281493. He normally has these in stock in refurb. condition
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Very sorry for slow reply, I've been in hospital.
I have been told that to start with I could just try and loosen a little bit at gear stick and see if that helps and if not also do the back as well which I'd need to get someone to do which I have got lined up if needs be. Hopefully that will work as don't really want to be paying anything out if don't need to obviously.
Thanks for your reply, much appreciated
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Ive an intact original silver heater control knob for the princely sum of £ 4 plus postage.
Fits Mk2 F & TFs
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Very sorry for slow reply, I've been in hospital. I would take it back to the mechanic but he has done a runner, turns out a very dodgy bloke and has screwed over nearly 100 people which has only recently come to light.
I have been told that to start with I could just try and loosen a little bit at gear stick and see if that helps and if not also do the back as well which I'd need to get someone to do which I have got lined up if needs be. Hopefully that will work as don't really want to be paying anything out if don't need to obviously.
Thanks for your reply, much appreciated
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I think patience is the watchword here, they are certainly out there & can be bought for sensible money. I was with a friend the other evening & he was showing me his latest purchase, a set of 16” hairpin wheels which he has had finished in shadow chrome. They need to be reshod soon but are serviceable; wheels & refinishing just shy of £200.
I bought a set of 17” with very good proxies for £100, they went straight on & then straight off as they caught on full lock. I’ll rework them, cure the interference problem & they will roll out in spring.
Just keep looking.
M
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I couldnt get away with that with my petrol lawn mower. The damn thing is really fussy on fuel, equally hates E10 petrol and amything that has been standing for a few months so I always have to run it on fresh E5. Any dirty petrol tends to get mixed with a bit of diesel or chip fat and used to start bonfires.
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I assume that you have tried the various MG breakers, if so look on eBay, they do crop up from time to time. It is also worth looking for MK1 Lotus Elise wheels which fit and not only bare better looking but much lighter than any MGTF wheel except the Ultralight’s. Search ProbRace 1.2.
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It would seem that I have not described the issue properly.
One or more products in a specific formulation of Antifreeze seems to contain a particular compound that is considered as a plasticiser. I’m told that the specific compound is not present in many antifreeze/corrosion inhibitors including OAT, and that there are many producers of those products that are safe to use with silicone hoses.
As stated I’m awaiting a response from one supplier/producer to confirm that the suggested product is acceptable/safe to use (I’m as sure as I can be that it is).
What I need to know is if anyone has purchased hoses from the Chinese source identified (AliExpress) and if so with what success.
Can anyone help with that please?
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I pay a bloke to mow the lawns, I got better things to do than chase a bloody lawn mower around the yard let alone maintain the horrid things.....I despise small engines they are backward and poorly designed rubbish built to the lowest possible costCobber, what I have done with old fuel is mix it with some fresh and used it in our lawn mower, it smells really bad and the mower doesn't like it much but it's being used.
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