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In Spain, MOT inspectors are usually mechanics who have not found a job.
I understand your frustration, but it seems to me that they do totally random inspections (apart from making me waste almost 2 hours having gone by appointment)
My car is a '97 MGF 1.8 LHD, with Mike Satur suspension (which I will try to pass off as an original extra, not as a modification)
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Given the MG two coats of base coat silver,but ran out of thinners So will lightly flat paint with 2000 wet and dry and give final coat Len
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Hi VJSantos, not sure why your ITV tester is so interested in the chassis number, mostly people will simply use the VIN which you already seem to have found. I think it is, as you said, the fault of the tester. The last place you mention, in the trunk is not where it is supposed to be, I think it is under where the hood stows, near the screwed down engine access panel under the carpet and sound-deadening material.
The emissions could be due to all sorts of things, faulty sensor, exhaust issue or a number of other things. Knowing your exact model and engine would help us here to help you.
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Hello, I wanted to check the Airbag ecu on a 2000 MG ZR, but I got only "init fail" and can't do anything more, I tried both Temic V1 and AB Autoliv but same result
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Yes, how often to you see a bit of advice where the twit offering the recommendation omits the most obvious part.
Thank you David, I am that twit.
One handy modification is to replace the pozidrive screws with Allen key socket heads. These are so much easier to guide into place than a wobbly screw dancing on the end of a screwdriver.
M
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Ahh, so the bottom comes off first does it?
The two screws nearest the wheel are about 22mm long so certainly don’t engage with the top half.
I have yet to take out the one nearest the front of the car.
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As long as you've remembered to take the screws out, that is...Airportable wrote: Oh & the nacelles (nice use of the correct terminology), just worry the buggers until they come apart. You have gravity on your side when they are coming off, wait until you’re putting them back around the key aperture.
M
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Hmm, I don’t have much luck with plastic bits. But the thought of bonding on additional stiffeners is interesting.
Might consider bonding on some extra “stuff” at the front end with the thought of a few more holes and pegs if I could think of a means of alignment.
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Hope that helps.
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Oh & the nacelles (nice use of the correct terminology), just worry the buggers until they come apart. You have gravity on your side when they are coming off, wait until you’re putting them back around the key aperture.
M
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Don’t bother with the rivnut tool, you’ll be right out of the frying pan, use your two pack epoxy. I had some square polypropylene rod, slightly oversized, which I chucked in the lathe & bored out to take the rivnut & filed to fit but most folk won’t have that luxury + I’m a dick when it comes to stuff like that; chose the most complicated method.
You can easily glue in the ‘nuts but do make sure they align.
M
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In the process of doing that I also opted to renew the electrical door lock. Thought I was doing well until I had the new electrical solenoid fitted and the new handle but had not connected either electrics or the rod that links door handle to latch.
You don’t need two guesses to know what happened next!
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Thank you for the suggestions. Suitable stuff ordered from Screwfix.
Blinkin Eck - note to self ~ don’t think about changing another door handle or lock without having a massive dose of tranquilliser. What a job.
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Thank you all for the suggestions. After a good sleep and refreshed I had another look with sunlight shining from a slightly different angle and found the thing.
I’m waiting for some suitable 2 pack glue to arrive and will bond them in for now.
Rivnuts sound a good idea but you do need the tool to pull to form the clinch.
Now, how in the name of what’s his name do you part the top half of the steering wheel nacelle from the bottom?
Which half has to be squeezed to release it from the other half?
Can anyone help with that.?
It is now obvious that you need that top half removing to give enough room to withdraw the instrument panel surround away from the instruments so that it disengages from the clips at the bottom of the instrument covering clear face.
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