Noisy wiper motor!

Slightly different tack - 
how difficult is it to remove the whole wiper assembly so I can lube it as preventative maint.  Far as I know the system have have had very little use.

It looks a bit tricky to negotiate it around the clutch hydraulic pipe??

 

Ta.

You have to pop the black plastic scuttle around the wiper stantions so you can get to the two big nuts holding them.
If you take off the wiper motor cover you can turn the wiper spindle by hand so that if the rack catches you can wind it out of the way.
I turned mine by hand so I know it moves the rack.
Tbh I lubricated my rack in situ with spray grease. It is free and nice and quiet.
I'm always frightened of marking plastic when it is in perfect condition!

Seems like a good opportunity as they could be dry - who knows?  They were a touch juddery in the storm on the M1!
I still haven't got the servo brace fitted I've decided to change the foam seal whilst I'm at it to something at bit more effective PLUS some spacers for the front bolts.  Bolt it all down proper job and discover how far out the servo bolts are.

I seem to have seen posts that say it is easier to fit them to the servo first and then the bulkhead but whatever way they do seem fiddlesome!
Good luck Vince.

The clutch pipe work will create enjoyment for a while especially if you have the strange device with a couple of pipes coming & going. This is the clutch damper a device so discreet in its operation that no one knows what it’s for & once removed there is no perceived difference in clutch feel or function.
The assembly will come out, you will be on the edge of calamity most of the time, with bolts loosened to the last half turn but it can be done without removing plumbing.
I’ve a thing about rose joints & due to the persistent popping of of the pop on poppers & my aversion to those “get you through the next MOT” clips, I remade mine with rods & rose joints.
It doesn’t wipe the screen any better but it was fun: until I had to refit it & re align it all.
If you are minded to service it doing it on the bench, as I’ve said, I’d recommend, it is a worthwhile job but start it at the beginning of a dry spell.
M

Brian  -  Cannot do Servo first on mine.  The bolt holes are approx 5mm too far back.  Plus all the other crap I was moaning about.

I SUSPECT that it was originally fitted on a car that had done a good few miles and the bulkhead had already stretched.  "Pete" has very little movement so the bolt holes are too far forward.  (If this makes sense?)i

AP -  Its hardly  surprising it looks like some clown has plumbed it into the brakes on my car! 

I get what you are saying Vince about the servo and I also have that "thingy" on my clutch that AP so elequently described as something mystical and magical that seems to have no purpose whatsoever.
It makes me think the alarm system was designed by a psycopath that hates people.

I have not had problems with my wiper motor, but I did once have a bearing 'screetch' for years with my heater motor on my MGB (just when turning it on). The repair (which worked quite well) recommended by forum members was to drill a tiny hole into the motor casing to access the bearing, then apply some gear oil in the hole and then seal it up with some silicone. I am not familiar with the design of the wiper motor  but it could perhaps be the same approach. It was quite easy. A lot easier than rebuilding it.  

On a separate note, being on the topic of wiper motors, does anyone know if it possible to replace the wiper motor linkage arms without having to remove the wiper motor assembly? The plastic joints on mine are worn. I have bought a set of replacement linkage arms but have not tried to fit them yet and am hoping I do not need to remove the assembly just to fit the arms. Any iadvice?

Thanks Goodwood..I have tried something similar.
There is a black plastic grub screw that takes up the end float of the armature spindle. When you remove that you can squirt whatever you want in to the gearbox section as it is below the electrics.
In my case it was lythium spray grease. I think the bearing at the bottom that I hoped to lubricate has a cover over it or is sealed as it hasn't made much difference!

To cover both questions; to replace the wiper drag links in situ will in all probability take longer & be as fiddling as removing the entire mech’. The byproduct of getting it out & on the bench is the ease of greasing the greasable, blowing out the motor & if there isn’t a drain hole in the motors lowest point, drilling one.
The magnet assembly splits easily from the gearbox, having removed the two screws (torques in my case), then the magnets instantly stick to the rotor & you have to fight to get the two halves in two halves. The bottom bearing is spherical, if you can get a dob of Molyslip in it before you rebuild, great. Other lubricants are available but not better.
Drilling a supernumerary hole in a bearing is a last resort; you could easily exchange one problem for an even worse one.
However you are big enough & bright enough to decide the next move & so it’s over to you.
M

Thanks AP.
I bought the one on Ebay as it is said to be functioning and is quiet and it was cheap!
I can't bare to have the car not complete. I have other vehicles but a non working TF will just bother me.
It allows me to be functional again and I can strip my own motor at my leisure. It is impeccably clean inside so it is worth replacing the bearing which I see is ready available.
I will let the Forum know how I get on.

I’ve been tiptoeing through the eBay offerings & found an entire wiper assembly for around £25-00, I hope that hasn’t upset anyone. It’s from a seller calling himself Parts Captain. For that money it would be worth having it around you, if your wipers were a bit suspect. Rebuild at your leisure & swap over at your convenience.
I was there & lurking amongst the bargain basement bin looking for a cheap Freelander wiper motor to play with & found replacement pattern parts for little more than £25-00, no wonder folk get sucked in & end up tuned in for maximum smoke whilst fitting to our cars.
M