Noisy wiper motor!

Cheers AP!
It's a very simple design and the hardest part is removing the disc with the electrics attached. It is quite delicate but it has to come off to get to the bearing.
I have tiny cable ties and I will tie the brushes back in to their housings against their springs so I can put the spindle back through the bearing.

I can see now how it is not possible to lubricate the bearing without disassembly. The best hope perhaps is to try to lubricate the shaft that comes out underneath?

I had been squirting spray grease in to the gearbox hoping to do some good but it only lubricated the bottom oilite bushes.
The bearing is not visible at all from below.
Now I know how it is built and what is underneath the electric fibre board I would squirt through the holes in that board knowing it would reach the top surface of the bearing.
Whether it would do any good is debatable! 😁

Do be careful with the lubricants you chose. Some formulations open up the surface of thermoplastics & allow the lub’s to penetrate further in, doing more damage enroute.
WD40 is wonderful stuff but only for it’s designed job, dispersal of moisture, outside of that it is the sperm of satan. A light machine oil, such as 3in1 is far better.
Silicone lub’s are useful but a bugger of a job to clean off if you want to paint, PTFE sprays are great, but the PTFE has to be carried to the job in a “vehicle” or solvent & it’s this solvent which attacks plastics. Silicone & PTFE are good insulators & now you have your mechanical stuff running properly, the device doesn’t work because the electrical contacts aren’t making.
Catch 22.
M

Thanks AP..you are correct of course.
In all honesty I hope to never have the need to spray anything in there again.
It was wishful thinking to think I could do any good in the first place with a sealed bearing!

Cable tied the brushes in place to be able to put the armature back in place when the time comes.
 

Drifted out the bearing using a 11mm quarter inch socket with the blunt end against the collet. I used a nut and bolt to centre the bolt and knocked it out with that.
It is very tight! In hindsight I should have heated the gearbox housing in the oven. At this stage there is nothing perishable to worry about.
 

The bearing and the "circlip" and the collet came out together. It's impossible to remove the circlip on its own.
I cleaned up the bearing but its impossible to read the number. Rimmers stock them.

I couldn't read the number on the bearing so I have had a bit of a hard time finding one.
I found one on Wednesday evening from MGMania for a tenner. It's a better bearing but it also comes with the 5 nuts and bolts needed to clamp it back together and a drill to drill out what's left of the rivets. Nice piece of kit for the money. 
Should get it back together this weekend and hopefully it will be a good spare.

 

I admire your tenacity in finding how to dismantle it and renew the bearing.
I hope the Admins can turn this into a How To.

Thank you!
Not knowing what I was doing I took more of it apart than needed.
For instance the oilite bushes for the driveshaft don't need to be drifted out as they don't wear.
It's just the bearing that goes.
I spoke to Cobber about doing an How To for the sound deadening and he gave me the go ahead so I will do the same for this and make it more concise without the babble!

Moved to How to section.

Thank you for the move! Very much appreciated.

The new bearing number is 608 2RS.
I Googled it and found it for sale from 66 pence for one to £4.50 for ten! Group buy? 😁
EDIT:  the new bearing fits correctly in to the body nicely but it is slack on the armature shaft. The old one had to be drifted off the shaft.
I see a potential problem of noise ahead!
I will proceed in putting it back together but not quite as enthusiasticly.
It was sold as a specific kit so I assuming it must work.