Noisy wiper motor!

"the big nut you have to remove the plastic scuttle panel and that almost certainly means marking those caps"
I was wondering how that was done!  Apparently not worth bothering?  Just buy a bag of replacements before you start?  Expect then to get bug*ered.

I'm currently experimenting with making a nitrile rubber gasket for the snorkel as the foam thing is "inadequate".  
Mine is as bent as a 9 quid note.  No idea if that is normal.  Presumable caused by bolting down on a weak plastic structure.
   

As it happens the thick steel brace should flatten it out!

Bryan...when you say you refurbished the motor did you strip it and remove the gearbox?
I ask because I'm going to be stripping mine once I fit the s/h motor.
I am trying to determine info about the bearing layout.
The bearing in the top of the outer case is an oilite bearing..I believe mine is ok...what type of bearing supports the lower part of the armature spindle in the body? I suspect this is my problem.
I take it the one in the bottom of the gearbox that supports the driveshaft is a roller bearing?
Any help so I can get my head around it would be appreciated!

I made a 'brace' for the rear of the snorkel in order to keep it uniformly flat against the seal. [ a short length of aluminium carpet threshold strip did nicely]

I also made my made my own packer to go between the snorkel & bulkhead. It was about 10mm closed cell neoprene, self adhesive on one side & as with Chris, I made strengthening ribs.
A thin smear of silicon grease & there hasn’t been any suggestion of damp in the footwell.
M
Everything clamped up well

I also used neoprene, following AP´s advise, and it worked a treat 

bryan young wrote:

I have had a very noisy wiper motor on my 96 MGF think its the gearbox, I bought a complete assembly, well two, different plugs & because the motors are NLA I decided to rebuild & refurbish one I fitted new arms from Mike Satur which have rose jointed ends. (no fear of ends popping off ever) the wipers recently made a loud grinding noise and wont turn off, so I have fitted the refurbished set , bit of a fiddle removing existing and fitting refurbished, works like a dream & very quiet.


Good morning.

I have got MS´s replacement kit but still have not fitted it. Having a look in Youtube, it seems it is not as a straight swap as it should probably be. I also got a new motor and want to keep the current one as a spare, once I am there.
Can you provide some insight on this?

I am not a proficient mechanic and it scares me a bit to get started with this  

 

Notnumber - thanks for that reminder. I need to "brace the rear as well.  Strengthening ribs??
AP - 10mm neoprene seems a better choice than the nitrile, which has very little compressability .  Lucky I haven't cut it yet!

 

I assume you will ultimately end up with a matching pair of gauges & your question implies an electronic units. The devices I settled on came via eBay from a firm called Racing2000, they have performed faultlessly. Amongst other selectable parameters are colours, select to match your interior.
Due to the oil pressure sender being quite large you might have to juggle sender positions to end up with everything in & neat. I used a sandwich adapter, this fits between the oil filter mount & the filter, the less expensive ones of these have suspect threads, not a problem for me as I can cut threads on my lathe. Whilst on about thread, your “T” adapter looks to be 1/8” BSP, it could be NTP, these are not compatible, they will “go” but you might need PTFE tape. This causes earthing problems, use a jubilee clip on the barrel of the pressure sender to clamp a supplementary earth wire on it to earth out the unit.
Forget the original wiring & if you have access up the “transmission tunnel” run the wire up there to the instruments.
There will be other things, I’ll add on when:if I remember.
M

Thanks AP once again.
It is 1/8 Npt as most sensors usually are that.
I have used sandwhich plates before and if I need to I will certainly purchase a good one.
I haven't chosen instruments yet. I want analogue with black dials and red pointers.
I won't be able to get any to match the instrument cluster and as my heater knobs are now black and I have a black radio in a black bezel they will fit in nicely!
I want simple script that's uncluttered and I fitted the Landy type Durite in my MX5. 
It was also a mechanical one which I prefer but the run from the engine at the front through to a round air vent I used was short.
I prefer them over electric ones. I'm just old fashioned!
 
 

A Tale of Woe.

I bought a S/h motor from Ebay last Wednesday. It was despatched on Thursday via Evri.
Friday night I checked the tracking number. It said they had the parcel. Sat am I got an email from "Evri" saying they had tried to deliver it that morning but nobody was in and could I rearrange delivery. I followed the link.
Yes I got scammed.
There was a charge of £1.45 to redeliver. I filled out my card details. It then said delivery would be within 4 working days.
On Sunday I got a bit suspicious.
Evri don't charge for redelivery I found out.
Had to cancel my bank card.
So not only am I still waiting for delivery of a wiper motor but also a new bank card!
Silly me.
Evri still don't know when it will be out for delivery.
Meanwhile my lovely car is off the road.
Only good thing is that under the bonnet now looks factory new.

That's a nightmare especially when you are waiting for a delivery from the same company the scammers are saying they are,
If i drop mine off it'll give you a bit more cleaning to be getting on with mate

How did the scammers know that you were expecting an Evri delivery?
A very frustrating and irritating experience.